In early October 1699 young Badenese – he just turned twenty years old – Franz Caspar Schillinger got bored with his life, packed his things and embarked on a journey to see the world. He had met a Jesuit missionary traveling to India and the thought of seeing that fabulous land so captivated him that he left everything behind and went along. Schillinger first travelled to Venice, then to Livorno, Malta, Alexandria, and Aleppo, where he arrived on December 15, 1699. After spending almost five weeks in Aleppo, he decided not to venture across the dangerous Syrian desert and took a more circuitous route, travelling north to Erzerum, then to Kars and Yerevan before heading south to Isfahan. After enjoying the delights of the Safavid capital, he proceeded to Bandar Abbas and departed for India in April 1701. He spent almost a year exploring India before boarding a ship to Europe, which took him around the tip of Africa to France. By December 1702, he was safely back home. One can only imagine stories he shared at a local tavern. We can glimpse some of his experiences in an interesting travelogue that he published in 1707 recounting his travels.
In his travelogue, Schillinger frequently mentions Georgia and Georgians. He noted that "once Georgia was such a mighty kingdom that it was able to field more than 100,000 soldiers and take on Persians, Turks and Tatars" and that "on almost all church and war banners they show the image of the holy martyr George." Describing Georgians whom he had encountered in Persia, Schillinger observed the following:
"The inhabitants are white like we Europeans. They proudly dress in luxurious clothes, in particular the women. The men wear a cotton or silken binding that in layers encircles the head, and likewise with a bulge over the forehead. The women's main decoration over their hair almost looks like a double ship in the midst of which arises a small pointed turret. The lower robe reaches below the calves and almost to the feet and is turned crosswise over their body (just like in Germany some travel robes are made) and then girded with a sash. The upper robe does not have particular sleeves, but it is like a shortened gown, which open in front, lined with fur, and from the neck until the belt, the lapels, a hand wide, are lined with the same fur. The women wear trousers like the man, which hand down to the feet and slippers, but in such a way that the lower robe can be seen. Almost everyone wears slippers."
Schillinger's travelogue contains several plates including one showing the appearance of the Georgians residing in Persia.
