Excerpts from the diary and notes that William O. Field wrote during his 1933 trip to the historical Khevsureti region in Georgia. For Field's photos from the trip click here.
Khevsuratia [Khevsureti]
Passanour
Sakerpo (Badzua Veltauri guide)
Borisax
Khakhmati Pass
Datursdgvari [Datvis Jvari Pass]
Leba-skari
Shatil [Shatili]
Return by Mutso, Ardoti, Xaxabo, Khakhmati, Borisax, Sakerpo, Goruli, Busarchili Pass, Karkucho, Orsha, Kobi
Notes From 1929 Guidebook
Trussov Ravine leading from Kobi inhabited entirely by Ossetins. Ossetes came from the steppes of Central Asia and emigrated around the north end of the Caspian about 1000 B.C.p. 478.5 km. beyond village of “Upper Tsei [Tsey]” is the sanctuary “Rekom”, a remnant of Osset paganism. Is about 800 years old. Yearly service takes place here with sacrifice of animals. Good Osset villages in gorges running from the Zaramag. Nar village is near Zaramag and very interesting
[...]
Cakerpo [Sakerpo] and other nearby village is first or lowest Khevsur village. Both collectively called Bakhurheir.
Oct. 6, 1933
Outfit left Passanour with two men and five horses at about 11 a.m. The day was fine. The route lead up the old Georgian Highway now reduced in many places to the width of a horse trail. About 1 km. from Passanour we came to a place where the river (known as the Black Aragva [Aragavi]) had cut into the bankHighway now reduced in many places to the width of a horse trail. About 1 km. from Passanour we came to a place where the river (known as the Black Aragva [Aragavi]) had cut into the bank and washed away the trail. Men were working but had only a narrow way dug out. Badzia tried to ford the river instead. When the pack horse carrying the camera, film, and my duffle was in ? stream, his pack started to slip, but he managed to get to the bank before it collapsed under his belly. It was soon fixed but was a close shave as it might have completely spoiled the trip. The next ford proved impractical so we had to return. The horses were then unloaded and the stuff carried over the washed – out section. The rope slipped on one pack and the equipment case almost rolled away into the river.After over an hour’s delay we got started again and went on with no hitches to Sakerpo, Valteuri’s village. Here we had expected to find his home more or less in keeping with himself that is somewhat more advanced than his compatriots. Actually it was no so. His family lived in the rudest sort of stone hut with open lattice work of branches, the only protection on two sides.
There was a fire on one side of the room beside which squatted a man rocking a baby and nearby a woman mixing dough in a wooden trough. The smoke from the fire found its way out as fast as it could for this was no special vent for it. The room, the only one in the hut was full of stuff including; farm implements, great vats for storing grain, firewood, hay, utensils, benches, crude beds, etc. Much of the stuff was hung from the rafters. Below was the place for the cattle, mostly below ground. Our beds that night were hay covered with a rug. Supper consisted of canned sprats, bread, and milk with cocoa in it, sausage and cheese. In the house were at least three other women, two youngish and one old, one man, and three or four children of various ages, at least one of which was still feeding from its mother.The evening was clear and cold, the afternoon having been mostly cloudy.
Oct. 7th
We had some bread, cheese, sausage, and milk for breakfast. We took on two new pack animals leaving two behind. One of the new ones, a mule, carried the four heaviest pieces, fully 225 lbs. and did remarkably well all day long. We packed up and were away at 9:25 A.M. The day had looked as though it would be clear to start with but clouds soon settled over the mountain tops and we had few moments of sunshine during the day.
For two hours we climbed the pass, the last part being in clouds and swirling mists with a cutting wind. Once over the top, the trail leads along ridges for some distance. There was a good deal of snow on the eastern slopes but the footing was pretty good. It was pretty cold, however, at 1 P.M., we got below the snow and the snow flurries turned to a little rain. Here we stopped and had some hard bread, sprats, sausage, cheese, and some milk from the thermos.
Georgian shepherd from Khevsureti region in eastern Georgia
(Photo by William O. Field)
Below us was Borisakho the capital of Khevsuretia [Khevsureti]. Low clouds had prevented us from obtaining a beautiful view of the mountains and valleys of Khevsureti a [Khevsureti]. We however, did catch glimpses of the deep nearby valleys, - all water cut, none that we could see were molded by glaciers. Thus the slopes are all pretty steep and there is no level farmland on the shoulders of the hillsides or in the bottom of the valleys. At 2:15 we were off again and in less than 1 ½ hours were in Borisakho. To destroy any illusions as to the size of this district capital it should be said that it consists of several groups of houses scattered about a little valley, not more than about 35 houses in all. At the bottom near the river are two new building s, one the school and the other both the Ispolkom H.Q. and hospital. This last is the only one in Khevasuretia [Khevsureti] and has the only doctor. In two other villages there are clinics with a Feldsher in charge.At the school house were a number of men, probably Ispolkom members. Our statement that we wanted to go to Shatil [Shatili] met with considerable shrugging of shoulders and skeptic looks. At any rated we decided to go on to a village near the bottom of the pass. Yavorovski then said that there was a “terrible” bridge to be crossed before we could go on. This bridge proved admittedly rickety but by leading the horses over individually, it was easily managed.
The trail then lead eastward up a narrow valley. It was almost all wooded and in pretty good shape. We met one man who gave us all a drink of his arak, - quite good. At 6:15 after two hours of travel we reached a little village called Chala, - in appearance the most interesting we have seen so far. On the other side we stopped at a house and unpacked the horses. It was already getting dark and cold but instead of immediately getting the stuff inside and setting a fire lit, Badzie in the true Caucasian style had to talk and discuss all matters with the host leaving us seated on the baggage. However, an hour later we moved in. ‘In” is only relative for the end of the room is open and apparently can’t be closed even in the coldest weather. In the house were two young boys with embroidered coats decorated with some silver-wear but wearing no shoes or stockings of any kind. They seemed cold all the time I was there and yet this is only the beginning of winter. After long delays some potatoes were brought in and set to boil to make a soup. An hour later two [?] of chicken were added. * The fire was pitiful. Apparently these people don’t even know the value of a really good fire although there is lots of wood on the nearby hillsides.By 10:30 we started for bed. They insisted I should take one of the benches so as there was only one candle all watched me get into the blankets then moved on. It was then I found that Yavorovski had left his blanket in Tiflis and had only a coat to sleep in! I passed a fairly good night.*This chicken is I think wretched. Apparently the whole chicken is dumped in, - bones, skin, and all. So far I have found very little meat. Besides this we Incidentally twice during the trip up to the top of the pass the pack horses’ load slipped and my camera went off with a thud. It certainly is getting rougher treatment than it has had before.
Had some hard bread, they call roast, sausage (bad for it is mostly fat and very stringy, getting into one’s teeth at every bite) and cheese, which is good.The village of Chala is comprised of ten or fifteen houses and has a little church or perhaps chapel. There is no school and so it is safe to say few of the youth ever get any schooling or learn to read or write. Religious worship occurs but twice a year. It is a mixture of Christianity and Paganism. At these bi-yearly festivals cattle are sacrificed. No church vessels and sacred ornaments are left in the church. They are put there only for the festivals. No one knows how old are these houses and the church.Oct. 8.It was a devilish cold morning only a few degrees above freezing. Everybody except myself seemed to have had a pretty wretched night. My blankets, however, had kept me fairly warm and although not exactly comfortable, I got through all right. Again, there were clouds on all the summits and ridges, some looking very snowy. Badzia felt that the summits ahead would be unbearably cold so advised waiting till 11 A.M. to get started. Unfortunately this seemed a wise thing to do. Soon it developed that he really did not think it safe to try the pass leading over to Shatil [Shatili]. The men of the village advised us not to try it. It was very steep and there was a lot of snow. Furthermore it is a long summit requiring at least two hours at a high altitude which in this sort of weather would be obviously punishing to both horses and men. Two weeks ago one man had managed to get his horse across but only with great difficulty. Since then a lot of new snow had fallen so that it was thought that no more horses could be taken over till next summer.It was disappointing but necessary, therefore to give up Shatil [Shatili] and Mutso with its towers. Another year maybe, but not this one. The villages on this side of the pass must suffice. We decided, therefore, to cross the first smaller pass leading into the next valley to the villages near Kakemati, a little regional center of about thirty-five houses.Our morning’s breakfast was the usual cheese, sausage, dry bread, and tea. The children of the house were inadequately clothed and shivered pitifully. One little boy seemed to have nothing under his light woolen shirt. About noon we had another meal of the usual food. The weather was still bad for pictures with no sunlight as yet. There were signs of clearing, however. At about 2 P.M. we were getting packed up when a young man came up and asked if we had something to put on his hand which was cut. As I was getting out some mercurochrome he came up into the rooms lashing at one dog that was snapping at him. Then from behind the other dog sneaked up and got hold of his leg and got a good hold. He made a nasty hole and showed how much these dogs can be trusted.
Between two and three o’clock we got away with the weather showing signs of clearing. It was still raw and windy, however. In a little over an hour we were on the summit and there stopped for over an hour to take our first movies. There were a number of men we had seen at Chala there so we took pictures of them as well. We then continued on down into the valley and in another hour and half came to the villages of Kakinati and Piso. We chose Piso as our stopping place. At the river, Badzia met a man who evidently consulted to put us up and so lead us to his house, the uppermost of the village of about 13 or 14 houses. It was already quite late.
It was soon apparent that this house was more comfortable than either the one in Sacerpo or Chala, but it was still pretty crude. The family consisted of the man and his wife both say 35 years of age and their three children, tow girls of 9 and 13 and a boy of 6. Apparently it was quite new to them to have a foreigner there and they considered me a distinguished guest. This was shown when during the meal the hostess stood holding the kerosene light so that we could see. Had we not been distinguished she would simply have put the light on any nearby stand.It is customary for a guest to bring a bottle of wine so we broke out one of the bottles of cognac and all had a drink. I think it was appreciated by all especially our host. They gave me the main seat next to the fire which was particularly welcome not for my comfort but because it was the first place I had seen in Khevsuretia [Khevsureti] where one could change films in the magazines after a day’s work. This worked out pretty well during the next days.
Our supper was sausage, cheese, bread, potatoes, canned chicken, and tea. It was a long repast and by the time the children were finished it must have been nearly eleven. Our sleeping places were also better than in the other villages, being a room back inside the house where the hay was stored. He were quite comfortable, Although somewhat cramped for space with Cali (the interpreter), Usef (the horse man), and myself.Oct. 9It was a beautiful day with hardly a cloud in the sky. We photographed the family at work from household duties to farm work. All day they worked especially the hostess who excited my admiration the way she kept at it all day long going from one job to the next. I never saw her rest except when actually eating. The rest of the time she was constantly at work.We cut out one meal this day contenting ourselves with some breakfast of coffee with mile, sausage, cheese, and bread, and a Khevsuretian supper served by the family we were staying with. This last consisted of a pancake – like cake in which were wrapped potatoes, cheese, and butter, and then this heated up and dipped in butter. We were hungry and enjoyed it but it was not really very good. When we thought we were all through we were served with a fresh batch of these cakes and for politeness Had to eat some more. Strangely enough we had no particular ill effects from this repast. I had to work late to finish loading and unloading the magazines as all five were used up during the day. Oct 10.Another fine day. Our breakfast was the same as usual. The milk with which to make coffee is greatly appreciated. Our work that day was in large part outside the village proper. We visited the church. Badzie couldn’t come near but it was all right for Coli and I to go near. These churches are deserted on all except the two yearly celebrations that take place in July and August. At other times Kevsur’s are not supposed to go near. On the church was a cross in relief and near it the antlers of an animal like a deer, - a graphic example of the mixture of Christian worship and animal sacrifice. Nearby were large pots for sacrifices and several altar–like structures with a kind of ikon and on top the horns of rams.Above the church on the hillside was an old tower, a remnant of the days when the Khevsurs fought their neighbors such as the Ingush peoples.Above the village of Piso were the ruins of several old fortresses used by the people as dwellings during these wars. Now these are almost totally destroyed as their stones have been used for building and repairing in the village below.On the way back to our hosts house we had what amounted to a running fight with a ferocious looking dog which had to be kept off with stones thrown at him.Another guest turned up in our household, - a relative who formerly lived in the village but has since moved to Telav [Telavi] in Khaketia. He also shared in our food which is already running short. However, with the native bread, which however, isn’t very good, cheese and milk, we should be able to get through.These warm sunny days and cold nights have probably added to the difficulty of getting horses to Shatil [Shatili] for the snow on the pass is now frozen. I don’t yet know and probably never will just how difficult it would have been to get to Shatil [Shatili]. I don’t think travelling conditions could have been as bad as painted by Coli.
Oct. 11.
Another beautiful day. We had decided that this must be our last in Piso as we had the essentials of this families activities and did not want to stay on too long as this is their busiest season and there is much to do before winter sets in.We spent most of the day around our host’s house photographing details of the life of the family. Their relative found some Of the old fighting clothes and borrowed the rest of what was needed and dressed for me. This consisted of a head piece with a veil of mail, a coat of mail reaching to the knees, a shield, and a sword.Oct. 12.Beautiful day. Started at 11A.M. for Borisakho. Stopped several times en route so reached there at dark (es. 6:30 P.M.). Bridge being built so had to ford river. After some delay given a room where Coli, Badzie, Yusif, and I were quite comfortable. Coli and I had benches to sleep on.The Chairman of the Khevsuretian Ispolkom joined us for supper; second bottle of cognac brought out. His daughter Tania sang for us afterwards. Coli and I then joined him for supper and talked till late.Oct. 13.Beautiful day. Photographed bridge building and the two gov. bldgs. Then made 4 series of tests which for the most part were badly developed but what emulsion received showed pictures to be good.Oct. 14Another beautiful day. Got started about 9 A.M. went by longer but better route for horses and reached summit at 1P.M. Photographed here for an hour then went on to Sakerpo. Almost lost equipment sack when rope holding it on horse gave way. Yusif caught it just before it rolled to the edge of a steep side bank above the river. Reached Sakerpo 4 P.M. Had the same uncomfortable quarters but this time we were more used to them and got along pretty well. The place is awfully drafty, however, especially in the evening. Badzie’s father-in-law gave us some horrible tasting vodka of his for supper. We had to take it.
Oct. 15.
Shashlick for breakfast (from the sheep bought in Piso). Very good – Photographed around the village during the day. Being Sunday, I believe it was Free Day and little work was going on. We had been assured that this was the time to organize a dance and special work. However, it developed that religious beliefs prevented any work to be done on Sunday with the result that no dance was possible and only with great difficulty could we get certain scenes of weaving, knitting, etc. At the end of the day our work was stopped by a cloud that persistently obscured the sun for over an hour before it disappeared behind a mountain. Actually this was the only time we had been so delayed on our trip.
Oct. 16.
Another beautiful day. Got started at about 9:45 AM and hurried to Passanour without stopping in order to get word to Tiflis early enough to get there that day. We arrive at Passanour a little after 2 P.M. but found that the telephone line would not be open to that station till 4 P.M. We therefore sent a note to the Intourist office in Tiflis by a Soyuztrans bus going that way and settled down for a long wait. At 4 P.M. Coli got Tiflis on the phone but the connection was so bad that as it turned out he couldn’t make himself understood so that effort was wasted, although at the time we thought Tiflis understood enough to send us a car right away.No car came all evening so we spent the night in the hotel. It was long and now obvious and the light too poor to read by.
Oct. 17.
The car finally came at 10A.M. and three and a half hours later we were in Tiflis. There I found Louis who had made two trips to Mtskhet for pictures, and two to Borzom. He was expecting to go to Kasbek in a day or two. Our plans were to go to Ossetia leaving Tiflis Oct. 20th.
NOTE
Khevsurs studying in Tiflis 1930
Total 33 men, 7 women
In kindergarten, 5 boys
Higher schools, 2 girls
Technical (Railroad) school, 4 boys
Sewing school, 4 girls
Workers school, 2 men, 1 girl
Agricultural school, 12 men
Financial Cooperative shop, 1 man
Technical school, 2 men
Construction courses, 8 men
Militia, 1 man
In 1929 three gynecologists went through Khev. Made 59 operations 325 women and 225 men treated. Sickness in Khev.: 12% eyes; 12% rheumatism; 18% women diseases; 28% stomach trouble; Rest unclassified.
First cooperative started in 1929. 2% of people became members involving 8% of the houses
Were 11 women and 65 men.
Deposits in 1930 were 247 rubles.Turnover of money during 1930 was 29,225 rubles.
Goods needed were kerosene, matches, salt, candy, clothes.
Khev. Cows.Yearly average 575 kg.; in a technical institute this same cow will produce 2500 kg.
There was a fire on one side of the room beside which squatted a man rocking a baby and nearby a woman mixing dough in a wooden trough. The smoke from the fire found its way out as fast as it could for this was no special vent for it. The room, the only one in the hut was full of stuff including; farm implements, great vats for storing grain, firewood, hay, utensils, benches, crude beds, etc. Much of the stuff was hung from the rafters. Below was the place for the cattle, mostly below ground. Our beds that night were hay covered with a rug. Supper consisted of canned sprats, bread, and milk with cocoa in it, sausage and cheese. In the house were at least three other women, two youngish and one old, one man, and three or four children of various ages, at least one of which was still feeding from its mother.The evening was clear and cold, the afternoon having been mostly cloudy.
Oct. 7th
We had some bread, cheese, sausage, and milk for breakfast. We took on two new pack animals leaving two behind. One of the new ones, a mule, carried the four heaviest pieces, fully 225 lbs. and did remarkably well all day long. We packed up and were away at 9:25 A.M. The day had looked as though it would be clear to start with but clouds soon settled over the mountain tops and we had few moments of sunshine during the day.
For two hours we climbed the pass, the last part being in clouds and swirling mists with a cutting wind. Once over the top, the trail leads along ridges for some distance. There was a good deal of snow on the eastern slopes but the footing was pretty good. It was pretty cold, however, at 1 P.M., we got below the snow and the snow flurries turned to a little rain. Here we stopped and had some hard bread, sprats, sausage, cheese, and some milk from the thermos.
In 1929 three gynecologists went through Khev. Made 59 operations 325 women and 225 men treated. Sickness in Khev.: 12% eyes; 12% rheumatism; 18% women diseases; 28% stomach trouble; Rest unclassified.
First cooperative started in 1929. 2% of people became members involving 8% of the houses
Were 11 women and 65 men.
Deposits in 1930 were 247 rubles.Turnover of money during 1930 was 29,225 rubles.
Goods needed were kerosene, matches, salt, candy, clothes.
Khev. Cows.Yearly average 575 kg.; in a technical institute this same cow will produce 2500 kg.
