Wednesday, July 6, 2016

Gamba, Voyage dans la Russie méridionale (1826) - part 1.

Jean-François Gamba was a French consul in Tiflis in the 1820s. He traveled extensively across the Caucasus and, in 1826, published a two volume Voyage dans la Russie méridionale, et particulièrement dans les provinces situées au delà du Caucase that contains many interesting insights into contemporary Georgian society. 

From volume 2:

The Georgian is of tall stature and strong constitution. His traits are very pronounced and beautiful, with handsome black eyes, and long, often  aquiline nose, more of the Jewish (with whom he has often been confused) than the Roman cut. His gait is proud, sometimes accompanied by a peculiar body motion that makes him almost insolent. Living in a country that was constantly ravaged by wars, [the Georgians] had to remain constantly on the defensive, either against the Turks, who threatened them from the pashaliks of Kars and Akhaltsikhe, or against the Persians, who menaced from the Aras River, or against the tartars and Lezghis who descended from the Caucasus. He is thus born a warrior but, belonging to a nation that is few in numbers, he is more practiced in guerrilla warfare than in regular battles. No other people in Asia furnishes soldiers who are braver or better horsemen that Georgians. In the Persian armies they always constituted an elite corps that the Persians king turned to secure a victory in battle. They are brave, but often cruel; hospitable, but reserved; intelligence, yet ignorant. A Georgian thus has all the vices and virtues of a soldier.

The Georgian princes, accustomed to incessant wars under their kings, are beginning to tire of their idle  and monotonous life. If ever Russia should make any serious attack upon the Muslim [states] of Asia, she would find it easy to recruit numerous armies among the Georgians, distinguished by their courage and European-style training, worthy of the name of the best troops in the entire [Russian] empire. 

The population is, in general, agricultural or engaged in artisan crafts, but it neglects commerce... The beauty of the Georgian women is famed all over the world. Regular features, that remind us of the beautiful Greek statues, slender waists, the whiteness of the skin and gentle looks all distinguish a Georgian woman.




From Volume 1:

The noble Mingrelian, who held the functions of chief of the village, received us with great hospitality; he was remarkable for his size and his strength; he wore a beard and a short mustache. His features were regular, but amidst an expression of kindness, which he expressed to us, he had rather the air of a feudal lord than of a peaceful cultivator. 

His house, built of wood, was neat. It contained, as usual, but one room; it was large, and was provided with two beds, which were covered with carpets and cushions. Enormous logs of oak, heaped on the fire that occupied the centre of the chamber, had been long burning. We found it the more comfortable, as we all felt desirous to dry ourselves after having been for six hours in a continued rain. 

The name of our host was Georgighia [George]. He presented to us his wife, who was large, well formed, and handsome; although she had a daughter twelve years old, she was herself only twenty-six - as it is the custom in Mingrelia for girls to marry at the age of twelve. She greeted us in the most affable manner, and preserved, during our residence, an air of ease which surprised us. 

Having offered them some tea, we were about to make use of our own provisions, when our interpreter informed us that supper was preparing for us. Accordingly, in a short time, they placed before us a long bench, on which the domestics, in great numbers, arranged the provisions. These consisted of three large vessels, containing a paste of ground millet, which they call gomi, and which was taken with a wooden trowel out of the iron cauldrons; then was brought in, two roast fowls, and a great wooden bowl, coarsely wrought, containing peaces of meat, accompanied with cold water; and, finally, white cheese, made with the milk of goats. Large cakes of corn flour [mchadi] served us for plates and for bread. 

[...]

The red wine which our host gave us was of a good quality, and did not at all resemble that which we had been accustomed to buy in the market of Redoute-kale. 

The family and the friends of the house all sat at table with us. The chamber was filled, and the doors were crowded with spectators. After supper, the master of the house and his wife slept on one of the beds, and we spread our mattress on the other. 

The house of our host was situated on an eminence, decorated with fine trees. On one extremity of this terrace was a wooden church, built with much care, and not yet finished. The sides of this building were formed with oaken planks, about two inches thick, well polished, and held together by a tongue and grove. Around the church have been preserved ash, linden and elm trees of remarkable size. 

[...]

As an acknowledgement of the kind offices of the head of the village, we offered him two razors and a pruning knife to trim his vines. His wife, encouraged by these small presents, asked for a pair of scissors, a thimble, needles, and, above all things, for two metal spoons, which made a part of our travelling equipage. While it gave me pleasure to satisfy this wish, it was, at least, a proof that if this people eat still with their fingers - if they know not the use of many things which have become of prime necessity in civilized nations, nothing would be more easy than to create these wants, and to lead them, gradually, to peaceful labours, and to manners more mild.

 [,..]



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