Jean-Baptiste Tavernier, Les Six Voyages... (1676) - Part 2

Jean-Baptiste Tavernier (1605 – 1689) was a French gem merchant and traveler, who had made six voyages to Persia and India between the years 1630 and 1668. In 1675, Tavernier, at the behest of his patron Louis XIV, published his famous travelogue "Les Six Voyages de Jean-Baptiste Tavernier" (1676) which was translated into English in 1678 and excerpted here.

Mengrelia [Western Georgia] extends from a Chain of Mountains, that separates it from [eastern] Georgia to the Black Sea, and is now divided into three Provinces, every one of which has their King. The first is called the Province of lmarete [Imereti], or Bassa-Shiouk [Baschi Achouk, Ottoman name for Imeretians], the king whereof pretends to a superiority over both the other, which is the reason they are often at War, and that with so much cruelty, that when they have taken any prisoners of either side, they sell them into Turkey. They are so accustomed to sell one another in this Country, that if a man or his wife have any occasion for money, they will go and sell one of their Children, and many times they will exchange a Child for Ribands [ribbons] or other Toyes at the Mercers [merchants'] Shops. 

The second Province is that of Mengrelia, and the ruler of this Province is called the King of Dadian. 

The third is the Province of Guriel [Guria], the ruler of which Province is called the King of Guriel. 

The Province of Mengrelia was formerly subject to the King of Bassa-Shiouk, who sent thither a Governour, which is called in their language Dadian. One of those Govemours being a person of wit and courage, gained so far upon the affection of the People, that they chose him for their King. 

The chief of the Province of Guriel, seeing how the Dadian had obtained the Kingdom, following the example of Mengrelia, shook off the Yoke of the King of Bassa-Shiouk, and chose another King among themselves, who keeps his Soveraignty to this day, by the support of the Grand Signor [Ottoman sultan]. For when the Dadian rebelled, he entered into an Alliance with the Grand Signor, and obliged himself to furnish him every year with such a certain quantity of Iron, upon condition that if the King of Bassa-Shiouk should wage war upon him, [the sultan] would furnish him with twenty thousand Horse[men]. Of which the Turk was very glad, finding thereby the Country of Mengrelia [western Georgia] divided, which being united, was able at any time to have disturbed him with an Army of fifty thousand Men. 

The King of Bassa-Shiouk [Imereti] coins money of the same size and weight with that of the King of Persia. But in regard it is not so fine metal as that of the King of Persia, he would have much a doe to make it pass in the trade between his Subjects and the Persians, which is very great, had he not found an expedient by putting the King of Persia's name upon the Coin as well as his own, which makes it pass without any difficulty. He would also put the Grand Signor's Name upon his Coin, but that the Turk coins none but small money, or Aspers, excepting excepting only some Ducatts which he coins in Cairo. The King of Bassa-Shiouk as well as the King of Teflis coins all sort of foreign money. 

These three Kings of Bassa-Shiouk [Imereti], Mengrelia and Guriel are Christians also. And when they go to war, all the Ecclesiastical Persons attend them; Arch-bishops and Bishops, Priests and Monks: not so much to fight as to encourage the Soldiers. 

Being at Constantinople the first time I travelled to Persia, I saw there an ambassador from the King of Mengrelia, whose behaviour gave all the Franks occasion of laughter. The Present which he made to the Grand Signor [the sultan] was in Iron and Steel, and a great number of Slaves. The first time of his Audience, he had a suite of over 200 Persons. But every day he sold two or three [persons] to defray his expenses, so that at his departure, he had none but his Secretary and two Vassals more left. He was a man of presence but no wit: and every time he went to visit the Grand Signor, he presumed to wear the white Bonnet which all the Franks wondered at; when they saw that the Grand Vizier winked at it. For should any other Christian have done so, he had been most certainly put to death, or constrain'd to turn Mahometan. By which it was apparent how much the Grand Signor valued the friendship of the King of Mengrelia, and how careful he is of offending those that are sent from his Court. He knew those People suffer no affronts, but upon the least word presently draw [their swords], besides that there is nothing to be got by provoking them. 

This ambassador going once upon a visit into the Country, returning home was caught in a storm, whereupon he pulled off his Boots and carried them under his Coat, choosing rather to go bare-foot to his lodging, than to spoil his Boots. 

Another time, it being the custom of all Catholic Ambassadors to go to Mass to the Covent of Grey Friars in Pera , upon St. Francis' Day, the Mengrelian ambassador after mass was done, coming out of the Church, and seeing several baubles which the peddlers expose in the cloister upon that day, bought a tin ring, two or three small looking-glasses, and a pipe, which he put in his mouth and went piping all the way in the street, as Children do coming from fairs. 

But to return to the matter, you must take notice that there are not only Iron Mines, but also Mines of Gold and Silver in two places five or fix days Journey from Teflis, the one called Souanet [Svaneti] and the other Obetet. But the mischief is, the people can hardly be got to work there  for fear the Earth should tumbledown and bury them in the Mine, as it has many times happened. There is also a Mine of Gold near to a place which is called Hardanoushe, and a Mine of Silver at Gunishe-Kone, five days journey from Erzurum, and as many from Trebizond. 

As for the people themselves, both Georgians and Mengrelians [western Georgians] never trouble themselves about the ignorance and viciousness of their Priests, or whether they be able to instruct them or no. The richest among them are they which are in the most credit, and absolutely give Laws to the poor. There are also some heads of the Church that assume such a jurisdiction over the people, as to sell them both to the Turks and Persians, and they choose out the handsomest children, both Boys and Girls, to get more money, by which authority also the great men of the Country enjoy married Women and Maids at their pleasure. They will choose out their Children for the Bishops while they are yet in their Cradles, and if the Prince be dissatisfied at it, all the clergy joins with him that makes the choice, and then together by the ears they go. In which skirmishes they will carry away whole villages, and sell all the poor people to the Turks and Persians. And indeed the custom of selling men and women is so common in that Country that a man may almost affirm it to be one of 

their main Trades. 

The Bishops dissolve Marriages when they please, and then Marry again after they have sold the first. If any of the Natives be not Married to his fancy, he takes another for such a time as he thinks fit, for which he pays her all the while as the Turks do. Very few of these people know what Baptism means. Only two or three days after the woman is brought to bed [gives birth], the Priest comes and brings a little oil, mumbles over a few Prayers, and then anoints the Mother and the Infant, which they believe to be the best Baptism in the World. In short they are a people of no Devotion at all, neither in their Ceremonies nor in their Prayers. But there are great number of Nunneries, where the young Maids apply themselves to their Studies, and after such an age, whether they stay in the Nunneries or betake 

themselves to the Service of any of the great Lords, they Confess, Baptize, Marry, and perform all other Ecclesiastical Functions, which I never knew practiced in any other part of the World. 

Jean-Baptiste Tavernier, Les Six Voyages... (1676) - Part 1

Jean-Baptiste Tavernier (1605 – 1689) was a French gem merchant and traveler, who had made six voyages to Persia and India between the years 1630 and 1668. In 1675, Tavernier, at the behest of his patron Louis XIV, published his famous travelogue "Les Six Voyages de Jean-Baptiste Tavernier" (1676) which was translated into English in 1678. The part excerpted here deals with the eastern Georgia. Tavernie devotes another section of his book to Western Georgia, which he calls "Mengrelia," and I will post it separately.

GEORGIA, which others call Gurgie, or Gurgistan, extends Eastward to the Caspian Sea; and upon the West is bounded by Mountains that, part it from Mengrelia. Formerly it was a Kingdom, all the Inhabitants whereof were Chriftians, of the Armenian and of the Greek Church, but of late the Mahometans have got footing among them. And the King of Persia having filled them full of Divisions, has made two Kingdoms of it, which he calls Provinces, over which he has placed two Governors. They are generally Princes of the Country, who must turn Mahometan before they can be admitted to that Dignity. When they are advanced, they take upon them the title of Kings and while they have any issue, the King of Persia cannot dispossess their Children. 

The most Potent of these two Kings, is he that resides at Teflis, who in the Language of the Country is called the King of Cartele [Kartli]. The present King is the last that has continued a Christian, with his four Sons; the Eldest of which, the King of Persia having enticed to Court, partly by Promises, and partly by Presents, has won to Mahometism [Islam]. Immediately thereupon , he caused him to be declared King of the other Province. 

Thcse two Kings have each of them a Guard of Mahometan Horsemen under their own pay, and at present I believe there are in both Kingdoms near upon 12000 Mahometan Families. 

The King of Teflis coins Money in the King of Persia's Name; and the Silver which he coins, is in Spanish Reals, French Crowns, and such other Money, which the Armenians bring out of Europe for their Goods. As to the Justice of the Countrey, neither the King himself, nor the Mahometans have any thing to do with it. A thief is acquitted, paying seven-fold what he has stole; two parts whereof go to the Party robbed, one part to the Judges, and four parts to the King. If the Thief has not wherewithal to make restitution, he is sold: If the Product do not yet equal the Sum, if he have a Wife and Children, they sell the Wife, and if that will not do, then they sell the Children; But if the Party robbed be so merciful as to forgive the Thief his share, then neither the King nor the Judges can demand anything for their share. If a man commit a Murder, they condemn him to die, and deliver him up into the hands of the Kindred of the Party slain to do Execution as they please themselves. However, it is in their power to pardon him, if he be able to give sixty Cows or more to the next a-kin to the Party killed. In matter of Debt, a Creditor has power to seize upon all the estate of the 

Debtor; and if that will not satisfy, he may sell his Wife and Children. 

The Chriftians of Georgia arc very ignorant, especially in Matters of Religion. They learn that little they know, in the Monasteries, as also to write and read, and generally the Women and Maids are more knowing than the Men, not only because there are more Religious Houses for Women than for Men, but also because the Boys are bred up to labour, or sent to the Wars. For if a Virgin grows up, and happens to be handsome, someone or other presently endeavors to steal her, on purpose to sell her into Turkey, Persia, or the Territories of the great Mogul [India.] So that to prevent their being stolen, their Fathers and Mothers put them very young into Nunneries where they apply themselves to study, wherein, if they attain to any proficiency, they usually stay as long as they live; after that, they profess, and when they come to a certain Age, they are permitted to Baptize, and to apply the holy oils, as well as any Bishop or Arc-Bishop can do. 

The Georgians are very great Drinkers, and Nature has fitted them a Country that produces good store of Wine. They love the strongest Drinks best; for which reason, at their Feasts, both men and women drink more Aqua vita [hard liqueur] than Wine. The women never eat in public with their Husbands, but when the man has invited his Friends, the next day the Woman invites her companions. And it is observable that at the Women's Festivals there is more Wine and Aqua vita drank than at the men's. The Guest no sooner enters into the Dining-room, but he is presented with 2 or 3 Dishes of Sweet-meats, and a Glass of half a pint of Aqua vita to excite his Appetite. They are great Feeders upon Onions and Herbs, which they eat raw out of the Garden. The Georgians are also great Travelers, and very much addicted to Trade; they are very dexterous in shooting with Bow and Arrows, and are accounted the best Soldiers in all Asia. They compose a great part of the King of Persia's Cavalry, who keeps them in his Court at peculiar pay, and relies very much upon their fidelity and courage. There are several also in the Service of the Great Mogul.

The Men are very well complexioned and very well shaped; and for the Women, they are accounted the fairest and most beautiful of all Asia, and therefore out of this Country it is that the King of Persia chooses all his Wives, being not permitted to marry a Stranger. Teflis, where the Women have more liberty than in any part of Asia, is the Capital City of Georgia, well situated, large and well built, where there likewise is a great Trade in Silk. 

Austen Henry Layard, Early adventures in Persia, Susiana, and Babylonia (1894)

Austen Henry Layard (1817 – 1894) was an English traveller, archaeologist, cuneiformist, art historian, draughtsman, collector, author, politician and diplomat, best known for his travel to Iraq and Iran in 1839-1842, excavations of Nimrud and of Niniveh, and the discovery of the library of Ashurbanipal in 1851. The excerpt below is from his 1839-1840 journey through Iran, where he encountered many Georgians and even travelled in a Georgian disguise for safety.

I had been suffering for some days from a severe attack of intermittent fever, and, in addition, from dysentery. As I felt very weak and scarcely fit to cross the Luristan Mountains by difficult tracks almost impassable to horses, where the population was as scant as it was hostile to strangers, and where I might find myself even unable to procure food, I decided upon proceeding at once to Isfahan, where I hoped to obtain some rest and medical advice before continuing my journey. I had been going through many hardships. The heat was still almost unbearable in the burning rays of an August sun, and I was obliged to travel during the day. My only bed had been for long but a small carpet, and I could never take off my clothes, which were in a very ragged condition. My food had consisted of little else than sour curds, cheese, and fruit. It was not surprising, consequently, that my health should have suffered. 

We had now entered the district of Fereydan, or Feridun, a considerable part of which belonged to the great Bakhtiyari chief, Mehemet Taki Khan. We stopped at the principal village in it, which bore the same name, and which contained about one hundred and fifty houses. It was inhabited by a Georgian colony, which had been established there by Shah Abbas. These Christians had retained their native language and their religion. They were industrious, and their villages, which were numerous and surrounded by gardens and orchards, had a prosperous appearance. They were to be recognised at once by their features, which differed from those of the surrounding populations. Their women went unveiled, and many among those whom I saw were strikingly handsome. An abundance of water from the mountains, carried by innumerable water-courses and subterranean channels to all parts of the plain, irrigated a vast number of melon beds, producing fruit of excellent quality, which was sent for sale to Isfahan and elsewhere. 

A kind of clover, bearing a small fragrant flower, was also largely cultivated. We did not reach Adun, a Christian village where I had decided upon passing the night, until after dark. We were not hospitably received, and had much difficulty in getting a room. When at last we had succeeded in finding one, it was immediately crowded by idlers who came to gaze at the stranger, the news of whose arrival had spread through the place. Even the courtyard was filled with people who were waiting their turn to enter my room to stare at me. The women had congregated in numbers on the flat roof of the house, whence they could look down upon me through a hole in the ceiling which served for a chimney. I was placed to so much inconvenience by the men who crowded round me, that I was forced to threaten to drive them out with a thick stick. When at last they departed I stationed Ali at the door, who kept guard with a drawn sword and would not allow any one to enter. The women could not be induced to withdraw, but remained on the roof watching my proceedings until I settled myself for the night. 

Victor Dingelstedt, The Riviera of Russia (1904)

In Victor Dingelstedt, the corresponding member of the Royal Scottish Geographical Society, visited Western Georgia and prepared a lengthy report on its climate, natural resources and people. The article was published in The Scottish Geographical Magazine in June 1904 and was illustrated with these three photos.

Gamba, Voyage dans la Russie méridionale (1826) - part 1.

Jean-François Gamba was a French consul in Tiflis in the 1820s. He traveled extensively across the Caucasus and, in 1826, published a two volume Voyage dans la Russie méridionale, et particulièrement dans les provinces situées au delà du Caucase that contains many interesting insights into contemporary Georgian society. 

From volume 2:

The Georgian is of tall stature and strong constitution. His traits are very pronounced and beautiful, with handsome black eyes, and long, often  aquiline nose, more of the Jewish (with whom he has often been confused) than the Roman cut. His gait is proud, sometimes accompanied by a peculiar body motion that makes him almost insolent. Living in a country that was constantly ravaged by wars, [the Georgians] had to remain constantly on the defensive, either against the Turks, who threatened them from the pashaliks of Kars and Akhaltsikhe, or against the Persians, who menaced from the Aras River, or against the tartars and Lezghis who descended from the Caucasus. He is thus born a warrior but, belonging to a nation that is few in numbers, he is more practiced in guerrilla warfare than in regular battles. No other people in Asia furnishes soldiers who are braver or better horsemen that Georgians. In the Persian armies they always constituted an elite corps that the Persians king turned to secure a victory in battle. They are brave, but often cruel; hospitable, but reserved; intelligence, yet ignorant. A Georgian thus has all the vices and virtues of a soldier.

The Georgian princes, accustomed to incessant wars under their kings, are beginning to tire of their idle  and monotonous life. If ever Russia should make any serious attack upon the Muslim [states] of Asia, she would find it easy to recruit numerous armies among the Georgians, distinguished by their courage and European-style training, worthy of the name of the best troops in the entire [Russian] empire. 

The population is, in general, agricultural or engaged in artisan crafts, but it neglects commerce... The beauty of the Georgian women is famed all over the world. Regular features, that remind us of the beautiful Greek statues, slender waists, the whiteness of the skin and gentle looks all distinguish a Georgian woman.

From Volume 1:

The noble Mingrelian, who held the functions of chief of the village, received us with great hospitality; he was remarkable for his size and his strength; he wore a beard and a short mustache. His features were regular, but amidst an expression of kindness, which he expressed to us, he had rather the air of a feudal lord than of a peaceful cultivator. 

His house, built of wood, was neat. It contained, as usual, but one room; it was large, and was provided with two beds, which were covered with carpets and cushions. Enormous logs of oak, heaped on the fire that occupied the centre of the chamber, had been long burning. We found it the more comfortable, as we all felt desirous to dry ourselves after having been for six hours in a continued rain. 

The name of our host was Georgighia [George]. He presented to us his wife, who was large, well formed, and handsome; although she had a daughter twelve years old, she was herself only twenty-six - as it is the custom in Mingrelia for girls to marry at the age of twelve. She greeted us in the most affable manner, and preserved, during our residence, an air of ease which surprised us. 

Having offered them some tea, we were about to make use of our own provisions, when our interpreter informed us that supper was preparing for us. Accordingly, in a short time, they placed before us a long bench, on which the domestics, in great numbers, arranged the provisions. These consisted of three large vessels, containing a paste of ground millet, which they call gomi, and which was taken with a wooden trowel out of the iron cauldrons; then was brought in, two roast fowls, and a great wooden bowl, coarsely wrought, containing peaces of meat, accompanied with cold water; and, finally, white cheese, made with the milk of goats. Large cakes of corn flour [mchadi] served us for plates and for bread. 

[...]

The red wine which our host gave us was of a good quality, and did not at all resemble that which we had been accustomed to buy in the market of Redoute-kale. 

The family and the friends of the house all sat at table with us. The chamber was filled, and the doors were crowded with spectators. After supper, the master of the house and his wife slept on one of the beds, and we spread our mattress on the other. 

The house of our host was situated on an eminence, decorated with fine trees. On one extremity of this terrace was a wooden church, built with much care, and not yet finished. The sides of this building were formed with oaken planks, about two inches thick, well polished, and held together by a tongue and grove. Around the church have been preserved ash, linden and elm trees of remarkable size. 

[...]

As an acknowledgement of the kind offices of the head of the village, we offered him two razors and a pruning knife to trim his vines. His wife, encouraged by these small presents, asked for a pair of scissors, a thimble, needles, and, above all things, for two metal spoons, which made a part of our travelling equipage. While it gave me pleasure to satisfy this wish, it was, at least, a proof that if this people eat still with their fingers - if they know not the use of many things which have become of prime necessity in civilized nations, nothing would be more easy than to create these wants, and to lead them, gradually, to peaceful labours, and to manners more mild.

 [,..]

Vincentio d'Alessandri, Embassy to Persia (1571)

The short excerpts below comes from the report of Venetian ambassador Vincentio d'Alessandri who visited the court of Safavid Shah Tahmasp in 1571, just three years before the shah's death. The ambassador, who was dispatched on a mission to solicit Iranian support in Venice's war against the ottomans, left interesting insights into the Safavid royal court, noting that little or nothing could be expected the old and sickly shah who had been immured in his palace for the last few years and cared only for women and money. There was considerable political instability as Tahmasp's offspring clashed over the succession. The shah had married Turcoman, Georgian and Circassian women, whose offspring (seven of Tahmasp's surviving sons were by Georgian or Circassian mothers and two by a Turcoman) was supported by their respective factions at the court. Among the former was Haydar Mirza Safavi, the son of a Georgian mother, who was supported by the Georgian faction and was positioning himself to claim power after his father's death.

The king's service is divided into three classes; first, the women, daughters of Sultans, bought by the king, or received as presents into his harem, which is thus called from them, the Seraglio, as the abode of the women. They are all Georgian and Circassian slaves, and he is attended by them when he sleeps in the palace. When he sleeps out, he is attended by slaves in the lower duties, as in

dressing and undressing; these are of the number of forty or fifty, and keep in order the tents and the larder.

Sultan Caidar Mirisce [Haydar Mirza], the third son and Lieutenant of his father, is eighteen years old, of small stature, most fascinating and handsome in appearance, and excelling in oratory, elegance and horsemanship, and most beloved by his father, he is very fond of hearing people discourse about war, although he does not show himself much fitted for that exercise, from his too delicate and almost feminine nature; he is of good intellect, for his age is grave enough, and shows that he understands the affairs of government, and knows how the other monarchs of the world rule....