Thomas Alcock, Travels in Russia, Persia, Turkey... (1831)

Thomas Alcock (1801-1866) served as a Member of the British Parliament at various times between 1826 and 1865 and was known as a progressive politician and advocate of extending the franchise, a fervent supporter of the preservation of commons and open spaces for public use and recreation. In the years 1828-1829 Alcock traveled through the Russian Empire, on his way to Persia and the Ottoman Empire, and later privately published his memoirs of this journey, which lasted eighteen months. He based his account on the notes he had taken while on the road. 

Tiflis has lost much of its Asiatic character since it has belonged to Russia, but the manners and costume of the Georgians arc very oriental. They adopt partially European habits, and are divided in this manner, as well as geographically, between the Persians and Russians : they sit cross-legged, but not on the ground like the Persians, having a sort of sofa; they do not eat without knives and forks, but have one perhaps between two or three; a single plate also frequently serves the whole party. Their dress is not the large flowing robe of the south, nor is it the tight coat of the north; it is a medium, and a very pretty costume — a full frock coat with large open sleeves, a sash round the waist, a long waistcoat reaching nearly down to the knees, closed in front, and a Persian cap and slippers. 

The baths at Tiflis, as throughout the East, are of much grander construction than those in Europe; their vaulted domes forcibly reminded me of the ruins of the baths about Rome. The system of bathing is most effectual ; it may almost be said that a thin skin is peeled off. The men employed in this capacity are so diligent to do the duty completely, that the operation of being steamed, then boiled, then rubbed and rubbed again, and then deluged in soap-suds, seems of infinite duration to those who usually consider a bath as an European comfort rather than an eastern luxury. 

We visited here the remains of an ancient temple of the fire-worshipers, at present converted into the dwelling of an old Georgian woman; there was nothing in the ruin itself worthy of observation. The old lady was employed in making a bridal dress for her daughter, of more value apparently, than her whole property ; such is the oriental love of finery. In the interior of the country we happened to see the merriment of a wedding, which consisted chiefly of dancing and men were drinking. The men were formed in a ring, leaping and hallooing with such vigour that the exercise was excessive; and the bride and bridegroom, standing together, having on their heads crowns of gilded ornaments to distinguish them, as is generally the custom in marriages of the Greek church, looked like two egregious fools. 

Before the possession of Georgia by the Russians, the women wore their faces covered, according to 

the fashion and religion of their eastern neighbours; but as the result of all sudden conversions is generally a falling into the contrary extremes, they now volunteer a greater display of their charms than is becoming, and which, leaving nothing to the imagination, destroys the interest one would otherwise take in the contemplation of their handsome features. 

There are twenty-eight thousand inhabitants in Tiflis, and it is a very flourishing town, carrying on considerable trade with the East and Moscow. It is probable that its commerce will continue to increase, and that a new channel of communication will be opened by the Black Sea, through the province of Gouriel, having Poti as the port, from whence there is a good road, which will enable them to trade directly with the Mediterranean.

[...]

Whilst we were at Tiflis, the officers of one of the regiments (of which the emperor's son, Michael, had been made honorary colonel) gave a grand ball in honour of their victories [during the Russo-Ottoman War of 1828-1829]. The pashas of Kars and Bayazeed were present, being prisoners on their parole: these, with the representatives of the old Georgian court in their national costume, whose ladies were so painted and pasted that they dared not move a muscle of their faces, and sat like as many pictures, in addition to the officers of a large garrison, made it a superior sort of fancy ball. The greatest taste was displayed in furnishing the rooms with arms: a lustre from the centre of one of the saloons, formed entirely of bayonets, did great credit to those who had the arrangement. Pillars were ingeniously constructed of muskets, to support lights; and the windows being open, had blinds in front of them composed of ramrods. The Turkish colours which bad been taken in various engagements, and were suspended in the rooms, assisted greatly to decorate the festive scene. The supper-tables were ornamented with beautiful bouquets of flowers, and I felt more satisfied than ever of the superior system of handing round the dishes. The remembrance of this supper has forcibly occurred to me since my return to England, where I have seen, at public dinners, immense joints placed before individuals who act as general anatomizers to the party; and it struck me also on the same occasion, whilst drinking to the health of General Paskevitch, that this tribute performed in silence was far preferable to our system of standing up and cheering on similar occasions. Some of the Georgian ladies were dressed in European fashion, spoke French, and assisted at quadrilles, waltzes, and mazoorkas. 

[...]

An opportunity was afforded us, during our stay at Tiflis, of making a most agreeable expedition through Kaketia and Lesghia, having been requested by the colonel of a Russian regiment to accompany him on a shooting excursion, to which he had been invited by the chiefs of the little republic of Balakan, situated in the independent part of the Caucasus, In the course of our tour through Kaketia, which may be considered the finest province of the whole Caucasus, abounding in vines, extensive forests, and splendid scenery, we were received (owing to the kindness of Count Paskevitch, who sent a Georgian officer of his suite with us) in the most flattering manner every where, and in a few days got to the quarters of our friend, the colonel. On our approach, late in the evening, we were struck by the singing of the Russian soldiers, who are constantly in the habit of amusing themselves in this way, whilst others were bivouacked around immense fires; and the eager sportsmen were still admiring the result of their chase, consisting of wild boars, deer, and jackals. At day-light, roused by a splendid band of bugles, we almost fancied the martial sound a signal for battle, encamped as we were in a wild country, and accompanied by three hundred dragoons, who were stationed round a given part of a large wood, whilst we were placed in a line across it, and desired to remain perfectly mute and motionless. When all necessary preparations were made, a trumpet was sounded for the advance of the corps of beaters, who immediately set up the most horrid yells, in addition to the noise of drums, horns, and every other instrument that could be found, to astound and drive forward the game. For three or four days we continued the sport, always killing enough at the end of each day to give us pleasure in the anticipation of the morrow, but not however so much as one might imagine from the advantages already spoken of.