Showing posts with label Imereti. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Imereti. Show all posts

Thursday, April 5, 2018

George Ellis,Memoir of a Map of the Countries... between the Black Sea and the Caspian

George Ellis (1753-1815) was an occasional poet, historian, diplomat, member of parliament, and co-founder of the Anti-Jacobin, who published several popular books, including Specimens of Early English Metrical Romances and History of the Dutch Revolution. Born in Jamaica, he was educated at Trinity College, Cambridge. While serving with a legation attached to the British ambassador Sir James Harris in St. Petersburg in 1782-1783, he wrote "Memoir of a Map of the Countries... between the Black Sea and the Caspian" which was published in London in 1788. Ellis never visited Caucasus and instead relied on existing travelogues and other literature to produce an accessible overview of the region for an average British reader. The first edition of the book featured several illustrations and a large map of the Caucasus.



Map of the Caucasus included in Ellis' book
(click to enlarge)
 Georgia, called by the Perfians Gurgiftan, and by the Turks Gurtchii [Gurji], comprehends the ancient Iberia, Colchis, and perhaps a part of Albania, as the province of Caket [Kakheti] is said to be distinguished, in the old Georgian language, by the name of Albon. The inhabitants are Christians of the Greek communion, and appear to have received their present name from their attachment to St. George, the tutelary Saint of these countries. 

Georgia is divided into nine provinces: 1. Semo Kartveli, or upper Carduel; 2. Kuemo Kartveli, or lower Carduel; 3. Somgheti; 4. Kakheti; 5. Tshina-Kartveli, or inner Carduel; 6. Imereti; 7. Guria; 8. Suaneti; and 9. Mingreli. Of these, the five first are subject to Heraclius [King Erekle II of Kartli/Kakheti, 1745-1798], and form what is commonly called the kingdom of Georgia; as the four last, which are subject to David [King David II of Imereti, 1784-1789, 1790-1791], form the kingdom or principality of Imeretia. 

This whole country is so extremely beautiful, that some fanciful travellers have imagined they had here found the situation of the original garden of Eden. The hills are covered with forests of oak, ash, beech, chestnuts, walnuts, and elms, encircled with vines, growing perfectly wild, but producing vast quantities of grapes. From these is annually made as much wine as is necessary for the yearly consumption; the remainder are left to rot on the vines. Cotton grows spontaneously, as well as the finest European fruit-trees. Rice, wheat, millet, hemp, and flax, are raised on the plains, almost without culture [cultivation]. The valleys afford the finest pasturage in the world; the rivers are full of fish; the mountains abound in minerals, and the climate is delicious; so that nature appears to have lavished on this favoured country every production that can contribute to the happiness of its inhabitants. 

On the other hand, the rivers of Georgia, being fed by mountain torrents, are at all seasons either too rapid or too shallow for the purposes of navigation: the Black Sea, by which commerce and civilization might be introduced from Europe, has been 'till very lately in the exclusive possession of the Turks: the trade of Georgia by land is greatly obstructed by the high mountains of Caucasus; and this obstacle is still increased by the swarms of predatory nations, by which those mountains are inhabited. 

[... Brief discussion of Georgian history follows...]

The capital of Georgia, and place of residence of prince Heraclius, is Tifflis, called by the inhabitants Tbilis-Cabar (Warm Town) from the warm baths in its neighbourhood. It was founded, as appears by an old inscription in the citadel, by a certain certain prince Lievang in the year 1063 [Tifliss was founded in the fifth century by King Vakhtang]. Though its circumference does not exceed two English miles, it contains twenty thousand inhabitants, of which more than half are Armenians: the remainder are principally Georgians, with some Tartars. It has twenty Armenian, and fifteen Greek churches, and three Metcheds [mosques]. The streets seldom exceed seven feet in breadth, and some are so narrow as scarcely to allow a passage for a man on horseback: they are consequently very filthy. The houses have flat roofs, on which the women occasionally walk in fine weather: they are neatly built, the walls of the rooms are wainscoted [lined with wooden paneling], and the floors spread with carpets. At Tifflis there is a foundry, at which are cast a few cannon, mortars, and balls, all of which are very inferior to those of the Turks. The gunpowder made here is very good. The Armenians have likewise established in this town all the manufactures carried on by their countrymen in Persia; the most flourishing is that of printed linens. The common coins of Georgia are the abasses, of about fifteen-pence value, and a small copper coin, stamped at the mint at Tifflis. Besides these, a large quantity of gold and silver money is brought into the country from Persia and Turkey, in exchange for honey, butter, cattle, and blue linens. 

The subjects of Heraclius are estimated at about sixty thousand families; but this, notwithstanding the present desolated state of the country, is probably an under valuation. The peasants belonging to the queen, and those of the patriarch, pay no tax to the prince, and therefore do not appear on the books of the revenue officers. Many similar exemptions have likewise been granted by the prince to his sons-in-law, and his favourites. Besides, as the impost on the peasants is not a poll-tax, but a tax on hearths, the inhabitants of a village, on the approach of the collectors, frequently carry the furniture of several huts into one, and destroy the remainder, which are afterwards very easily replaced. It is probable, therefore, that the population of Georgia does not fall short of three hundred and fifty thousand fouls. 

The revenues of this country may be estimated at about 150,000 roubles, or 26,250 £. They consist of, 1. the customs, farmed at 1,750£. 2. Rent paid by the farmers of the mint at Tifflis, 1,750£. — 3. The tribute paid by the Khans of Erivan and Gansha[Ganja], 7,000£. — and 4. The hearth money levied on the peasants, amounting to 15,750£. 

The government of Georgia is defpotic, but, were it not for the assistance of the Russian troops, the prince would be frequently unable to carry his decrees into execution. The punishments in criminal cafes are shockingly cruel, fortunately they are not frequent, because it is seldom difficult to escape into some of the neighboring countries, and because the prince is more enriched by confifcating the property of the criminal, than by putting him to torture. Judicial combats are considered as the privilege of nobility, and take place when the cause is extremely intricate, or when the power and interest of two claimants are so equal, that neither can force a decision of the court in his favour. This mode of trial is called an appeal to the judgment of God. 

The dress of the Georgians nearly resembles that of the Cossaks; but men of rank frequently wear the habit of Persia. They usually dye their hair, beards, and nails with red. The Georgian women employ the fame colour to stain the palms of their hands. On their heads they wear a cap or fillet, under which their black hair falls on their forehead; behind, it is braided into several tresses. Their eye-brows are painted with black, in such a manner as to form one entire line, and their faces are perfectly coated with white and red. Their robe is open to the girdle, so that they are reduced to conceal the breasts with their hands. Their air and manner are extremely voluptuous. Being generally educated in convents, they can all read and write; a qualification which is very unusual among the men, even of the highest rank. Girls are betrothed as soon as possible, often at three or four years of age. In the streets the women of rank are always veiled, and then it is indecent in any man to accost them. It is likewise uncivil in conversation to inquire after the wives of any of the company. These, however, are not ancient customs, but are a consequence of the violences committed by the Persians, under Shah Nadir 

Travellers accuse the Georgians of drunkenness, superstition, cruelty, sloth, avarice, and cowardice; vices which are every where common to slaves and tyrants, and are by no means peculiar to the natives of this country. The descendants of the colonists, carried off by Shah Abbas [in early 17th century], and settled at Persia, near Ispahan, and in Masanderan, have changed their character with their government; and the Georgian troops, employed in Persia against the Affghans, were advantageously distinguished by their docility, their discipline, and their courage. 

The other inhabitants of Georgia are Tartars, Ossi, and Armenians, called in the Georgian language Somakhi. These last are found all over Georgia, sometimes mixed with the natives, and sometimes in villages of their own. They speak among themselves their own language, but all understand and can talk the Georgian. Their religion is partly the Armenian, and partly the Roman Catholic. They are the most oppressed of the inhabitants, but are still distinguished by that instinctive industry which every where characterizes the nation. 

Besides these, there are in Georgia considerable numbers of Jews, called, in the language of the country, Uria. Some have villages of their own, and others are mixed with the Georgian. Armenian, and Tartar inhabitants, but never with the Ossi. They pay a small tribute above that of the natives. 

[...Another discussion of Georgian history follows...]

The capital of Imeretia, and place of residence of prince David, is Cutais [Kutaisi]. The remains of its cathedral seem to prove that it was once a considerable town, but at present it scarcely deserves the name of a village. Solomon, father of the present prince [ David was the son of Giorgi IX and cousin of Solomon I], very wisely ordered the walls and the citadel to be destroyed, observing, that the rocks of Caucafus were the only fortifications which were capable of being defended by an undisciplined army of six thousand men, unprovided with artillery. 

The inhabitants of Imeretia, eflimated at about twenty thousand families, are not collected into towns or villages but scattered over the country in small hamlets. They are less mixed with foreigners, and handsomer than the other Georgians. They are likewise bolder, and more industrious: they send yearly considerable quantities of vine to the neighbouring parts of Georgia, in leather bags, carried by horses: but they are without manufactures, very poor and miserable, and cruelly oppressed by their vexatious landlords. 

The ordinary revenues of Imeretia, like those of Georgia, arise from a contribution of the peasants in wine, grain, and cattle, and from the tribute of the neighbouring princes. Among the extraordinary sources of revenue, confiscations have a considerable share; but as all this is by no means sufficient for the subsistence of the prince, he usually travels from house to house, living on his vassals, and never changing his quarters till he has consumed every thing eatable. It will of course be understood, that the court of Imeretia is not remarkable for splendour, nor the prince's table very sumptuously served. His usual fare consists of gom (a species of millet, ground, and boiled into a paste), a piece of roasted meat, and some pressed caviar; these he eats with his fingers; forks and spoons being unknown in Imeretia. At table he is frequently employed in judging causes, which he decides at his discretion, there being no law in his dominions but his own will. His new ordinances are publicized to the people on Fridays, which are the market days, by a crier, who gets up into a tree, and from thence issues the proclamation. 


The Imeretians are of the Greek religion. Their Catholicos, or patriarch, is generally of the royal family, and can seldom read or write; and the inferior clergy are not better instructed. Their churches are wretched buildings, scarcely to be distinguished from common cottages, but from a paper cross over the principal door, and some paintings of the Virgin and the saints. 

The Dadian, or prince of Mingrelia and Guriel, though possessed of a country far more considerable than Imeretia, is tributary to prince David, who is, therefore, a very formidable neighbour to the Turks of Achalziche [Akhaltsikhe]. He is, however, very much fettered in his operations by the disobedience of his numerous barons, who, like those of Georgia and Mingrelia, have power of life and death over their vassals. 

SPECIMEN OF THE CAUCASIAN LANGUAGES
[In this section, Ellis compiled examples of words from several key Caucasian languages, including Abkhaz, Circassian, Ossetian, Kist, Lezghian and Georgian. Ellis noted that the words came from a general vocabulary that was created by the order of Empress Catherine II of Russia]

Click to Enlarge










Thursday, August 11, 2016

Ivan G. Golovin, The Caucasus (1854)

Ivan Golovin (1816-1890) was a Russian publicist and writer, who had published several popular works about the Russian empire in French, German and English. After graduating from the University of Derpt in 1837, he pursued a diplomatic career and was posted abroad before making a mistake of publishing a book that was banned by the Russian secret police. Recalled back to Russia, he refused to follow orders and stayed in Britain; he was tried in absentia and condemned to an exile to Siberia. Between 1845 and 1860, Golovin wrote several popular works on the Russian empire, including The Caucasus (1854) that appeared on the eve of the Crimean War and sought to educate a British reader about the region's geography, ethnography and history. 


Georgians are an agricultural people, and their ploughs are drawn by as many as ten or twelve oxen or buffaloes; but their dwellings are wretched hovels, little better than dens. They bring up silk-worms at home, and keep numerous flocks. Their bridges, on the Kour, are constructed according to the primitive system that prevailed in the time of Cambyses. Skins, the same that are used as leathern bottles to carry wine, are sewed, inflated, and carefully shut. Then they are tied one to the other, so as to cover the water from one bank to the other. Over them planks are fitted up. Such are their bridges.

The Georgians soon reach maturity and old age; and their daughters marry and have children even when they are only eleven years old.

The Georgian costume partakes of both the Persian and the Circassian. The upper garment is called kaba, and covers the arholuh, and the sharwali, which have become fashionable in Russia. The shirts are in silk or cotton. The Georgians dye their hair, and they display, in that art, a skill equal to that of the Persians.

[...]

The Immeretians, as well as the Georgians and Mingrelians, belong to the Kartwell race, though their languages are distinguished by a striking dissimilarity. The Immeretians wear the Persian costume, except the cap, which is a piece of cloth, fitted up for the purpose, sometimes embroidered with silver, and which is tied with a string round the chin. This cap, which has the shape of a vine leaf, covers only the surface of the head, and is no protection against the cold. However, its inefficiency is supplied by long and thick hair, which is dyed red, whilst moustaches are dyed black.

The Immeretians cultivate the vine, and are still more fond of wine than the Georgians. Their libations take place amidst sacred hymns, and no other kind of singing is known to them. Their dancing, like Circassian and Persian dancing, consists not of steps but of gestures and simple motions of the feet. Though Christians, they worship ancient idols, and make sacrifices of animals, especially on the tombs of the dead.

Saturday, July 9, 2016

Jean-Baptiste Tavernier, Les Six Voyages... (1676) - Part 2

Jean-Baptiste Tavernier (1605 – 1689) was a French gem merchant and traveler, who had made six voyages to Persia and India between the years 1630 and 1668. In 1675, Tavernier, at the behest of his patron Louis XIV, published his famous travelogue "Les Six Voyages de Jean-Baptiste Tavernier" (1676) which was translated into English in 1678 and excerpted here.



Mengrelia [Western Georgia] extends from a Chain of Mountains, that separates it from [eastern] Georgia to the Black Sea, and is now divided into three Provinces, every one of which has their King. The first is called the Province of lmarete [Imereti], or Bassa-Shiouk [Baschi Achouk, Ottoman name for Imeretians], the king whereof pretends to a superiority over both the other, which is the reason they are often at War, and that with so much cruelty, that when they have taken any prisoners of either side, they sell them into Turkey. They are so accustomed to sell one another in this Country, that if a man or his wife have any occasion for money, they will go and sell one of their Children, and many times they will exchange a Child for Ribands [ribbons] or other Toyes at the Mercers [merchants'] Shops. 

The second Province is that of Mengrelia, and the ruler of this Province is called the King of Dadian. 

The third is the Province of Guriel [Guria], the ruler of which Province is called the King of Guriel. 

The Province of Mengrelia was formerly subject to the King of Bassa-Shiouk, who sent thither a Governour, which is called in their language Dadian. One of those Govemours being a person of wit and courage, gained so far upon the affection of the People, that they chose him for their King. 

The chief of the Province of Guriel, seeing how the Dadian had obtained the Kingdom, following the example of Mengrelia, shook off the Yoke of the King of Bassa-Shiouk, and chose another King among themselves, who keeps his Soveraignty to this day, by the support of the Grand Signor [Ottoman sultan]. For when the Dadian rebelled, he entered into an Alliance with the Grand Signor, and obliged himself to furnish him every year with such a certain quantity of Iron, upon condition that if the King of Bassa-Shiouk should wage war upon him, [the sultan] would furnish him with twenty thousand Horse[men]. Of which the Turk was very glad, finding thereby the Country of Mengrelia [western Georgia] divided, which being united, was able at any time to have disturbed him with an Army of fifty thousand Men. 

The King of Bassa-Shiouk [Imereti] coins money of the same size and weight with that of the King of Persia. But in regard it is not so fine metal as that of the King of Persia, he would have much a doe to make it pass in the trade between his Subjects and the Persians, which is very great, had he not found an expedient by putting the King of Persia's name upon the Coin as well as his own, which makes it pass without any difficulty. He would also put the Grand Signor's Name upon his Coin, but that the Turk coins none but small money, or Aspers, excepting excepting only some Ducatts which he coins in Cairo. The King of Bassa-Shiouk as well as the King of Teflis coins all sort of foreign money. 

These three Kings of Bassa-Shiouk [Imereti], Mengrelia and Guriel are Christians also. And when they go to war, all the Ecclesiastical Persons attend them; Arch-bishops and Bishops, Priests and Monks: not so much to fight as to encourage the Soldiers. 

Being at Constantinople the first time I travelled to Persia, I saw there an ambassador from the King of Mengrelia, whose behaviour gave all the Franks occasion of laughter. The Present which he made to the Grand Signor [the sultan] was in Iron and Steel, and a great number of Slaves. The first time of his Audience, he had a suite of over 200 Persons. But every day he sold two or three [persons] to defray his expenses, so that at his departure, he had none but his Secretary and two Vassals more left. He was a man of presence but no wit: and every time he went to visit the Grand Signor, he presumed to wear the white Bonnet which all the Franks wondered at; when they saw that the Grand Vizier winked at it. For should any other Christian have done so, he had been most certainly put to death, or constrain'd to turn Mahometan. By which it was apparent how much the Grand Signor valued the friendship of the King of Mengrelia, and how careful he is of offending those that are sent from his Court. He knew those People suffer no affronts, but upon the least word presently draw [their swords], besides that there is nothing to be got by provoking them. 

This ambassador going once upon a visit into the Country, returning home was caught in a storm, whereupon he pulled off his Boots and carried them under his Coat, choosing rather to go bare-foot to his lodging, than to spoil his Boots. 

Another time, it being the custom of all Catholic Ambassadors to go to Mass to the Covent of Grey Friars in Pera , upon St. Francis' Day, the Mengrelian ambassador after mass was done, coming out of the Church, and seeing several baubles which the peddlers expose in the cloister upon that day, bought a tin ring, two or three small looking-glasses, and a pipe, which he put in his mouth and went piping all the way in the street, as Children do coming from fairs. 

But to return to the matter, you must take notice that there are not only Iron Mines, but also Mines of Gold and Silver in two places five or fix days Journey from Teflis, the one called Souanet [Svaneti] and the other Obetet. But the mischief is, the people can hardly be got to work there  for fear the Earth should tumbledown and bury them in the Mine, as it has many times happened. There is also a Mine of Gold near to a place which is called Hardanoushe, and a Mine of Silver at Gunishe-Kone, five days journey from Erzurum, and as many from Trebizond. 

As for the people themselves, both Georgians and Mengrelians [western Georgians] never trouble themselves about the ignorance and viciousness of their Priests, or whether they be able to instruct them or no. The richest among them are they which are in the most credit, and absolutely give Laws to the poor. There are also some heads of the Church that assume such a jurisdiction over the people, as to sell them both to the Turks and Persians, and they choose out the handsomest children, both Boys and Girls, to get more money, by which authority also the great men of the Country enjoy married Women and Maids at their pleasure. They will choose out their Children for the Bishops while they are yet in their Cradles, and if the Prince be dissatisfied at it, all the clergy joins with him that makes the choice, and then together by the ears they go. In which skirmishes they will carry away whole villages, and sell all the poor people to the Turks and Persians. And indeed the custom of selling men and women is so common in that Country that a man may almost affirm it to be one of 
their main Trades. 

The Bishops dissolve Marriages when they please, and then Marry again after they have sold the first. If any of the Natives be not Married to his fancy, he takes another for such a time as he thinks fit, for which he pays her all the while as the Turks do. Very few of these people know what Baptism means. Only two or three days after the woman is brought to bed [gives birth], the Priest comes and brings a little oil, mumbles over a few Prayers, and then anoints the Mother and the Infant, which they believe to be the best Baptism in the World. In short they are a people of no Devotion at all, neither in their Ceremonies nor in their Prayers. But there are great number of Nunneries, where the young Maids apply themselves to their Studies, and after such an age, whether they stay in the Nunneries or betake 
themselves to the Service of any of the great Lords, they Confess, Baptize, Marry, and perform all other Ecclesiastical Functions, which I never knew practiced in any other part of the World. 

Tuesday, June 28, 2016

James Bryce, Transcaucasia and Ararat (1876)

James Bryce (1838-1922) was a distinguished British jurist, writer and Liberal politician. Born in Belfast, he studied at the University of Glasgow, University of Heidelberg and at Trinity College, Oxford, where he earned his law degree. He practiced law for several years in London before accepting an offer to serve as Regius Professor of Civil Law at Oxford, a position he held for twenty three years until 1893. During this time Bryce had travelled extensively in Europe and, in 1876, visited the Caucasus, where he visited Georgia and Armenia.  In later years Bryce ventured into politics, becoming a member of the Parliament and serving as the British ambassador to the USA in 1907-1913. During World War I he was commissioned to write the well known Bryce Report on the German atrocities in Belgium. 

The brief excerpt below is from Bryce's book "Transcaucasia and Ararat" 


I will shortly describe the chief races that now occupy the country. Beginning from the west, we find the Mingrelians along the Black Sea coast, from the Turkish border to Sukhum Kaleh. They are the ne'er-do-wells of the Caucasian family. All their neighbours, however backward a Western may think them, have a bad word and a kick for the still more backward Mingrelian. To believe them, he is lazy, sensual, treacherous, and stupid, a liar and a thief. The strain in which the Russians and Armenians talk of them reminded me of the description one gets from the Transylvanian Saxons and Magyars of the Wallachs or Roumans who live among them. You ask what kind of people the Wallachs are. "A dirty people," they answer, "a treacherous people, a lazy people, a superstitious people, a cruel people, a gluttonous people. Otherwise not such a bad kind of people."

Lazy the Mingrelian certainly is, but in other respects I doubt if he is worse than his neighbours ; and he lives in so damp and warm a climate that violent exercise must be disagreeable. He is a well-made, good-looking fellow, but with a dull and perhaps rather sensual expression. And he is certainly backward in agriculture and trade, making very little of a singularly rich country. 

South of Mingrelia lies Guria, on the slopes and ridges of the Anti-Caucasus, a land where the people are more vigorous and upright, and where, as they have been less affected by conquest and immigration, the picturesque old costumes have best maintained themselves. 

West of the Mingrelians, in the hilly regions of the Upper Rion and its tributaries, live the Imeritians, a race speaking the Georgian language, who may generally be distinguished by their bushy hair. My personal knowledge of them is confined to three waiters at three several inns, rather a narrow basis for induction, but quite as wide as many travellers have had for some very sweeping conclusions. They have a better name than the Mingrelians, both for industry and honesty, and these three waiters 
were pleasant, civil fellows, though not particularly bright. 

Still farther east, and occupying the centre of Transcaucasia, are the Georgians, called by the Russians Grusinians or Grusians, who may be considered the principal and, till the arrival of the Muscovite, the dominant race of the country. They call themselves Karthli [kartveli], deducing their origin from a patriarch Karthlos (who was brother of Haik, the patriarch of the Armenian nation, and of Legis, the ancestor of the Lesghians), a grandson, or, as others hold, great-grandson of Gomer, son of Japhet. According to their own legends, they worshipped the sun and the moon and the five planets, and swore by the grave of Karthlos until converted to Christianity by St Nina in the fourth century of our era. For several centuries their kingdom extended almost to the Black Sea in one direction and the Caspian in another, and maintained itself with some credit against the hostility of Turks and Persians, though often wasted by Persian armies, and for long periods obliged to admit the suzerainty of the Shah. Its heroic age was the time of Queen Tamara, who flourished in the twelfth century, and is still honoured by pictures all over the country, in which she appears as a beautiful Amazon, not unlike the fancy portraits of Joan of Arc. To her is ascribed the foundation of every ancient church or monastery, just as all the strongholds are said to have been built by the robber Kir Oghlu, and as in Scotland there is hardly an old mansion but shows Wallace's sword and Queen Mary's apartment. [...] One sees traces of a sort of feudal period in the numerous castles ; most of them mere square towers, such as we see on the coast of Scotland and the north of Ireland, which lie scattered all over Georgia and Imeritia ; and the organisation of society was till quite lately feudal, the peasantry villeins under the native kings, and reduced under the Russians to serfdom, while the 
upper class consisted of landowning nobles and their immediate dependants. 

It is a joke among the Russians that every Georgian is a noble, and as the only title of nobility is Prince, the effect to an English ear of hearing all sorts of obscure people, country postmasters, droshky drivers, sometimes even servants, described as being Prince So-and-so, is at first grotesque. The number of noble families is, however, really not very large. I have heard it put as low as thirty, but as the title goes to all the children, each of the families has a vast number of titled members. This at least may be said for the numerous nobility, that, although it has been charged with vanity and frivolity, it does not despise all honest occupations. And some of the Georgian noble houses have pedigrees, apparently authentic pedigrees, older than any to be found in Europe. 

Every one has heard of the Georgian beauties, who in the estimation of Turkish importers rivalled or surpassed those of Circassia itself. Among them a great many handsome and even some beautiful faces may certainly be seen, regular and finely chiselled features, a clear complexion, large and liquid eyes, an erect carriage, in which there is a good deal of dignity as well as of voluptuousness. To a taste, however, formed upon Western models, mere beauty of features and figure, without expression, is not very interesting ; and these beautiful faces frequently want expression. Nor have they always that vivacity which, in the parallel case of the women of Andalusia, partly redeems the deficiency of intelligence. Admirable as pieces of Nature's handiwork, they are not equally charming. A Turk may think them perfection, but it may be doubted whether any one who had seen the ladies of Cork or Baltimore would take much pleasure in their society. However, this is a point on which people will disagree to the end of time; and those who hold that it is enough to look at a beauty without feeling inclined to talk to her need not go beyond Georgia to find all they can wish. It must be remembered, however, that this loveliness is rather fleeting. Towards middle life the complexion is apt to become sallow, and the nose and chin rather too prominent, while the vacuity of look remains. One is told that they are, as indeed the whole nation is, almost uneducated, with nothing but petty personal interests to fill their thoughts or animate their lives.

The men are sufficiently good-looking and pleasing in manner, with, perhaps, a shade of effeminacy in their countenances, at least in those of the lowland. They do not strike one as a strong race, either physically or otherwise, though they have produced some remarkable men, and having obtained civilisation and Christianity in the fourth century of our era, have ever since maintained their religion and national existence with great tenacity against both Turks and Persians. So early as the sixth century, Procopius compliments the Iberians (who are doubtless the ancestors of our Georgians) on their resolute adherence to Christian rites in spite of the attacks of the Persian fire-worshippers, who, it may be remarked in passing, seem to have been the first to set the example of religious persecution. The Muslims say that the Christianity of the Georgians is owing to their fondness for wine and for pork, both which good things, as everybody knows, the Prophet has forbidden to true believers. 
[...]

Scattered through Upper Georgia, and to be found among the peasantry as well as in the towns, there is a considerable Armenian population, who probably settled here when their national kingdom was destroyed by the Seljukian conquerors Alp Arslan and Malek Shah, in the eleventh century. Farther south, in Armenia proper, they constitute the bulk of the population in the country districts, Kurds being mixed with them in the mountains, Tatars in the plains, and Persians in the towns. As I shall have to recur to them in a later chapter, it is enough to remark here that they are the most vigorous and intelligent of the Transcaucasian races, with a gift for trade which has enabled them to get most of the larger business of the country into their hands. Their total number in these countries is estimated at 550,000. Between them and the Georgians there is little cordiality, especially as their wealthy men are apt to be creditors, and the Georgians apt to be debtors. 

Going down the Kur from Tiflis towards the Caspian, one finds the Greorgians give place to a people whom the Russians call Tatars, and who are unquestionably a branch of the great Turkic family....Veritable Turks these fellows certainly are, quite unlike the mongrel race who go by the name of the Turks in Europe, and much more resembling, in face, figure, and character, the pure undiluted Turkman of Khiva and the steppes of the Jaxartes. Being in some districts a settled and industrious race, they are, however, less wild-looking than the Turkmans, and remind one more of the grave and respectable Tatar of Kazan or the Crimea. Their villages, often mere burrows in the dry soil, are scattered all over the steppe eastward to the Caspian, and southward as far as the Persian frontier. Many are agricultural, many more live by their sheep and cattle, which in summer are driven up towards the Armenian mountains and in winter return to the steppe; and some of them, settled in the larger towns, practise various handicrafts, and among others weave rich carpets and other woollen fabrics which pass in the markets of Europe under the name of Persian. The Tatars are also the general carriers of the country. On the few roads, or oftener upon the open Steppe, one sees their endless trains of carts, and more rarely their strings of camels, fetching goods from Shamakha, or Baku, or Tavriz, to Tiflis, thence to be despatched over the Dariel into Southern Russia, or by railway to Poti and Western Europe. 

The last of their occupations, the one in which they most excel, and which they have almost to themselves, is brigandage. To what extent it prevails, I cannot attempt to say, for, as every traveller knows, there is no subject, not even court scandal, on which one hears such an immense number of stories, some of them obviously exaggerated, many of them honestly related, most of them absolutely impossible to test. If we had believed a quarter part of what the quidnuncs of Tiflis told us, we should have thought the country seriously disturbed, and travelling, especially by night, full of peril. If we had gone by our own experience, we should have pronounced the steppes of the Kur a greatdeal safer than Blackheath Common [ an area of south-east London]. Stories were always being brought into the city, and even appearing in the papers, of robberies, sometimes of murders, committed on the roads to Elizavetpol and Erivan; and along the latter road, we found the folk at the post stations with imaginations ready to see a Tatar behind every bush. Even the Russian officials at Tiflis, who of course desired to make little of anything that reflects on the vigilance of the Government, advised us to be careful where we halted, and how we displayed any valuables. I cannot help believing, therefore, that robberies do sometimes occur, and no doubt it is the Tatars, or at least bands led by a 
Tatar chief, who perpetrate them. But the substantial danger is not really more than sufficient to give a little piquancy to travelling, and make you fondle your pistols with the air of a man who feels himself prepared for an emergency. In a dull country, far removed from the interests and movements of the Western world, the pleasure of life is sensibly increased when people have got the exploits of robbers to talk about. It is a subject level with the meanest imagination: the idle Georgian noble and the ignorant peasant enjoy it as heartily as Walter Scott himself. 

[...]

Besides these aboriginal races, Georgians, Mingrelians, Caucasian mountaineers, and Armenians, and the incomers of old standing, such as Tatars and Persians, there is what may be called a top-dressing of recent immigrants from Europe, mostly Russians and Germans. The Russians, with one exception, consist of the officials, who generally consider Russia as their home, almost as our Indian civilians consider England, and intend to return to it when their work is over. The exception is formed by the various sects of dissenters whom the Government, fearing their disturbing political and social influence, has banished, or at least transferred, to these remote seats. They are mostly industrious, well-disposed people, morally, if not intellectually, above the level of the rest of the peasantry, who live in large villages, exactly like those of Central Russia, and keep themselves quite apart from the surrounding native population. 

Still more distinct are the Germans, of whom there are several colonies, the largest, established in Tiflis, numbering some four or five thousand souls. They came hither from Wurtemberg about sixty years ago, driven out by an obnoxious hymn-book. In respect of education and intelligence, they are of course far above any of the natives, while their Protestantism prevents them from intermarrying with, and therefore from sensibly affecting, their Russian neighbours. They have lost, if they ever possessed, the impulse of progress ; their own farms are the best in the country, and their handicrafts-men in Tiflis superior to the Georgians or Persians; but they are content to go on in their old ways, not spreading out from the community, not teaching or in any way stimulating the rest of the population. 

All these races live together, not merely within the limits of the same country, a country politically and physically one, but to a great extent actually on the same soil, mixed up with and crossing one another. In one part Georgians, in another Armenians, in a third Tatars, predominate ; but there are districts where Armenians and Georgians, or Armenians, Georgians, and Tatars, or Tatars and Persians, or Persians, Tatars, and Armenians, are so equally represented in point of numbers that it is hard to say which element predominates. This phenomenon — so strange to one who knows only the homogeneous population of West European countries, or of a country like America, where all sorts of elements are day by day being flung into the melting-pot, and lose their identity almost at once - comes out most noticeably in the capital of Transcaucasia, the city of Tiflis. Here six nations dwell together in a town smaller than Brighton, and six languages are constantly, three or four more occasionally, to be heard in the streets. Varieties of dress, religion, manners, and physical aspect correspond to these diversities of race. 

[...]


These peoples inhabit the more or less level country south of the Caucasus. Besides them, there is a multitude of mountain tribes of whom I have said something in the last preceding chapter, but who are far too numerous and too diverse in their character to be described at length. Probably no-where else in the world can so great a variety of stocks, languages, and religions be found huddled together in so narrow an area as in the Caucasian chain between the Euxine and the Caspian. It is as if every nation that passed from north to south, or west to east, had left some specimens of its people here behind to found a kind of ethnological museum. 

Thursday, June 23, 2016

Michele Membré, Relazione... (1539-1542)

Portrait of Tahmasp I by an unknown Italian artist,
XVI-XVII centuries, Uffizi Gallery, Florence.
Starting in 1521, the Ottomans led by the maverick Sultan Suleiman the Magnificent embarked on a rapid succession of victories in southeast Europe, capturing Belgrade, overrunning Hungary and besieging Vienna. Alarmed by these successes, Venice explored a possibility of forming an alliance with the rising Safavid Persia, where Shah Tahmasp had been also hard-pressed by the Ottomans. In 1539 the Venetian government made the decision to dispatch the thirty year old Michele Membré to Persia. Born into a well-to-do (but not patrician) Venetian family, Membré spoke several languages - Italian, Greek, Turkish and Arabic - and was a sociable person who found it easy to get to know people, all qualities that, in the eyes of the Venetian governing council, made him eminently qualified for the embassy. 

Pretending to be a merchant, Membré left Venice in early 1539 and, after passing  Crete, Cyprus and the Ottoman heartlands, he reached Western Georgia in late spring. After spending several weeks in Mingrelia, Imeretia and Kartli, he traveled to Armenia where he revealed his identity to the Persian authorities and was conveyed, with appropriate pomp, to Marand (some 45 miles northwest of Tabriz) where Shah Tahmasp had established his royal encampment. Welcomed by the shah, Membré spent several months at the Safavid court advocating alliance with Venice against the Turks and had exceptional opportunities to observe the Persian court. By the summer of 1540, Membré embarked on a return journey, travelling to the Portuguese colony in Hormuz, then to India and Portugal before returning back home in early spring of 1542. It was Venetian practice for envoys to present detailed accounts of their missions and Membré submitted his Relazione in July 1542. This document document provides excellent insights into the regions that Membré had visited and below is the excerpt on his experiences in Georgia.



Then I found a ship ready to go to Kaffa [in the Crimea], loaded with cotton botanoes from Adana and Tarsus. In the said ship were Turkish and Greek merchants; the sailors were Greek. So I straightway found the master of the ship and came to agreement with him; and because the sailors were Greek the master treated me kindly. And on the instant I loaded my camlets, which I had bought in Angora, and also sold that donkey of mine. And then we set out for Kaffa; if I am not mistaken, that was in the month of June 1539; and we went straight to Kaffa, remaining 18 days at sea with contrary winds and calms. The city of Kaffa consumes much cotton cloth because of the dyers. Then, together with the merchants, we lodged in a caravanserai... And that same day I found another Greek ship loaded with salt and other merchandise, master Khoja Ra'is of Sinop, which was ready to go to Mingrelia; and the next day I straightway found the master in the company of an Athenian barber, and I spoke with him, saying that he should carry me to Mingrelia. He replied that he would do so gladly. So, on the third day I loaded those few mohairs and camlets and on the fourth day set off on the said ship; from there we always sailed in sight of land, and in 18 or 16 days we reached a place called Anaclia, territory of the King Dadian of Mingrelia. 

In this place there is a large river, on which the ships go into when they are unloaded. Then the ship stops there on the said shore and holds a market within the ship, all by barter; they give cloth and take cloth. The Mingrelians come alongside the ship in their boats and each brings a bag with his cloth. So in that way they hold their markets. Salt is not found in the said place of Mingrelia. Leather and sheepskin and other goods are very dear. In the said place of Mingrelia there comes forth much yellow wax, linen thread and canarine silk of Zagem [Zagemi in eastern georgia] and they also sell many slaves. Then the next day the said ship began unloading salt and loading it into the boats to send to be sold in a market which they were going to hold in those days on the Phasis River at a place called Culauropa. 

And I went with the said boats to the said place where the market is held; and we travelled always in the boats on a river called the Phasis for 8 days. On the said river are infinitely many trees, on one side and the other, flat country; so each night the boat stopped by land and in the morning travelled, proceeding by sail. In the said place many flies and mosquitoes are found, which I surely could not have survived if I had not covered my face with a cloth, and all my body and hands; for the said mosquitoes were of such a kind that, when they had found uncovered flesh, they treated it so that the blood flowed as if a phlebotomy [ the practice of drawing blood from patients] had been performed. 

The Mingrelians go very poorly dressed, all with short cotton clothes and unshod, which we value for nothing. But it is quite true that all their feet look as if they were scabby. They wear on their heads a piece of felt like a mitre; they are all very small. To the north are many high mountains. The Mingrelian gentlemen wear very long clothes and a pair of boots of sheepskin leather, not having a leather sole but all of that sheepskin; also coloured felt on the head; and they are unbearded, with long moustaches such as the Iberians [eastern Georgians]have. So, because of the mosquitoes, as I have said, we endured great trouble till arriving at the said place of the market, called Culauropa. The said place is by the river called Phasis, to the southeast. It is on a plain within a wood and the houses are of wood, about 50 in number; and in the said place most of the households are Jews, who buy slaves of the Mingrelian nation and make them Jews; and in this the Mingrelians do not say them nay. 

And in the middle of the square where the market assembles stands a Church of Saint George, its vault of copper and with two little bell-towers. The Iberians [Georgians] celebrate the mass, and outside the church, there stands a wooden mast with three or four of their daggers [...] and two swords all stuck into the said wood. So, in that said place Culauropa I found a man from Scio called Zane, who was married there with an old lady of Mingrelia. Wherefore he made me alight at his house. I also found another, who was a venetian, married to a Mingrelian. His name was Bernardo Moliner, a man of forty five years of age, who told me that he had been a miller in Venice and that place in Mingrelia he had children, 3 in number, two male and a female married to one of the Mingrelians. 

Now, many poor people come to the said market, and other Iberian [Georgian] merchants with silks, which they exchange, cloth for cloth, without other money being used. And the said fair lasts three days and then all depart. There only remain those families of the Jews and 10 or 12 families of Mingrelians. 

So after the said fair was ended, as I have said, I set off in the company of a Greek merchant, Calojero of Trebizond by name, and we crossed the said river Phasis in a boat and went to a city of Iberia [Imeretia] called Kutaisi, of King Bashi achuq.* 

We were on the road 21/2 days, always travelling over level ground with many gardens. Then we entered the city called Kutaisi, crossing a river by a wooden bridge. Which river passes beside the said city; and to the north stands a stone fortress on a hill, in which there is a church; and on the other side, to the south east, is a meadow where the said King runs his horses. And beside the river he was building some houses of stone with many vaults, which they said were for the King. However, most of the houses in the  said city are of wood for the most part and there are many gardens.  

I lodged in the house of some goldsmiths from Trebizond, who kept me good company, and together with the said Calojero. In the said city cloth pays 5 per bale in tax. The coins of the said city are like Turkish aspers, and they are called tanka. The stamp on them is some Iberian [Georgian] letters. The King can have, by what was said, horsemen 7,000 in number, who are called aznavurs. The said aznavurs are much bigger men than the rest of us and have long, black moustaches; and they shave the beard. And they wear clothes, that is very long stockings of cotton cloth, of very coarse cotton, and cloth breeches, with, over the stockings, boots of sheepskin leather, and a quilted shirt of coarse cotton cloth, and a very long dolman of cotton cloth; and on the head a felt hat with a very long fine top. Which felts are coloured. Their arms are swords, lances, shield, bow and arrows, iron mace, mail coat, cuirassine, half helmet, plate gauntlets, good horses with good silk covers such that an arrow cannot go through them. So, when one of the said aznavurs rides to go to the field of battle, he wears all those arms. 

The said city of Kutaisi is very small.  After 7 or 8 days we went our way to another city called Gori, on which we were four days on the road, travelling always over very high mountains, full of trees and with many rivers, on which roads there is much mire; and about a day from the said city of Gori we passed by a fortress which stood on the summit of a mountain, and was in ruins for the most part. Then we came to to a place where there were houses to the number of about 70, all Jews, and beside that place passed a sweet stream like a canal. Thus, a river passes by the city called Gori. And with the horses we passed the said river and entered the city and lodged in the house of some Trapezuntines. The city is half of houses of wood and the other half of earth and part of stone. The city is small and to the north stands a stone fortress, partly in ruins. The King of the said place is called King Luarsab; he has horsemen called aznavurs, some 5,000 in number, by the account of his gentlemen. The people who live in the said city are half Armenians and the other half Iberians [Georgians]. They do not have salt, save that which comes from the lands of the Sophy [Persia]. Then, having loaded the mules, after 8 days I departed and went to another city called Tiflis, in the company of an Armenian of Lori. This city belongs to the said King Luarsab; to it we traveled 1 1/2 days. The said city of Tiflis is very large but the greater part of it was destroyed on account of the many wars the said Iberians have made among themselves. So the next day we departed, in company of five other Armenians who were going to Lori, the first of the Sophy's [Shah tahmasp's] cities, which borders on Iberia...


*King of Imereti was Bagrat III; Bashi achuq was the Ottoman name for the Imeretians.

Sunday, October 4, 2015

Elisée Reclus, Nouvelle géographie universelle (1881)

In the early 1870s, the French publishing house Hachette decided to published a multi-volume reference work on cultural geography of the world, a pioneering idea of the famous French geographer Elisée Reclus. Entitled Nouvelle géographie universelle: La Terre et les Hommes, it took Reclus eighteen longs years (1876-1894) to complete his magna opus of nineteen volumes, each devoted to a particular region of the world and containing detailed essays on land and peoples of that part of the world. The book was widely acclaimed and was translated in several languages, including English. In 1892 Reclus was awarded the prestigious Gold Medal of the Paris Geographical Society for this work.

Volume six of Nouvelle géographie universelle, which was published in 1881, dealt with "L'Asie Russe" (Russian Asia) where Reclus included a vast area from the Caucasus to Central Asia and Siberia. In the chapter on the Caucasus, the author provided geographic overview of North and South Caucasia and described peoples residing there. While working on this chapter, Reclus solicited a wide range of materials on Georgia some of which was provided by Georgian writer Iona Meunargia.
The chapter included many illustrations that were drawn from life or based on photographs taken in the region. Below are the excerpts and illustrations pertaining to Georgia:


The Svans and Rachians

The natives themselves are far from being a pure race. Amidst a great variety of types the contrast presented by the fair and brown Mingrelians is very striking. The former are distinguished by a lofty brow and oval face, the latter by broad features and low forehead, though both are alike handsome and of graceful carriage. From the remotest times the eastern shores of the Euxine have been visited by friends and foes of every race, many of whom must have introduced fresh ethnical elements. Arabs, and even negroes, flying from their Turkish masters, have contributed to increase the confusion. Yet, however numerous were the crossings, all have become blended together, jointly tending to develop the beauty of the original type. 

In the Mingrelian lowlands, and especially on the advanced spurs up to an altitude of about 3,700 feet, nearly all the men are handsome. But in the heart of the highlands, where the struggle for existence becomes more intensified, the features, especially of the women, are often even ugly. Goitre [a swelling of the neck or larynx resulting from enlargement of the thyroid gland] and cretinism [a condition of severely stunted physical and mental growth due to untreated congenital deficiency of thyroid hormones] are frequent amongst the Svans, and as we ascend the Ingur from the region of maize to the snowy pastures, the change in the appearance of the inhabitants is analogous to that which is observed by the traveller passing from the Italian lakes to the Alpine gorges of the Valais.

The Svans
The Svans, who occupy the Upper Ingur and Tskhenis valleys, are evidently a mixed race, although fundamentally akin to the Georgians, to whom they are also allied in speech. They were formerly a powerful nation mentioned by Strabo, and in the fifteenth century they still held the Upper Rion valley. The present survivors seem to descend mainly from fugitives driven from the Mingrelian plains by oppression and the calamities of war. In the secluded valleys bordering on the glaciers they found a secure retreat, almost severed by physical barriers from the rest of the world. More accessible are those of the Upper Tskhenis basin, who have consequently had to endure the hardest feudal rule under princes binding them to the glebe. This branch take the name of Dadian Svans, from the ancient Georgian princely title of "Dadian" assumed by the governing family. They are scarcely to be distinguished from their Imeritian neighbors, and their speech is a pure Georgian dialect. The Dadishkalian Svans, in the western division of the Upper Ingur basin, are also under a feudal lord of Kumik Tatar stock; but being regarded as serfs, they were emancipated at the expense of the Russian Government when serfdom was everywhere officially abolished. The eastern communities of the Upper Ingur have long maintained their independence, and are still often distinguished by the epithet of "Free," although they took the oath of obedience to Russia in 1853. And in many respects they are still really free, recognizing neither lord nor master, and rejecting even the control of the clergy. In the communal gatherings all have an equal voice, and important decisions require to be adopted unanimously, the opposition of a single member causing the whole question to be postponed until unanimity can be secured. Nor does the commune interfere in personal quarrels, which are regulated by the lex talionis [law of retaliation]. Nowhere else in the Caucasus are the laws of vendetta more rigorously adhered to, so that few are met who have not killed their man. All the houses along the Upper Ingur are real fortresses, perched on rocky eminences, and commanded by square watch-towers 60 to 80 feet high. The doors of these keeps are on the second or third story, and can be approached only by rude ladders formed of the stems of trees.

Hereditary animosities greatly contribute to the reduction of the population pent up in the bleak valley of Free Svania, or Jabe-Shevi; yet it is still so dense that the people are obliged to emigrate to the neighboring tribes. In the days of their military power their young men left their homes as conquerors, often undertaking plundering expeditions to the plains, and even in the fourteenth century they were strong enough to burn the city of Kutais. Till recently the excessive population was also checked by the practice of infanticide, in which most of the girls perished, while in hard times grown-up children were sold at prices varying from 700 to 1200 francs. The small amount of trade carried on by the tribes lower down is monopolized by the Jews, who are grouped in the village of Lakhamuli. These Jews are distinguished from their brethren elsewhere by their warlike habits. But although practicing Christian rites and calling themselves Svans, the hillmen of the Upper Ingur contract no alliances with them, and even refuse to eat at their table.

All the Svans, estimated at over 12,000, are classed amongst the Christian tribes of Caucasia, and even claim a sort of pre-eminence amongst their co-religionists, pretending that their ancestry were baptized by Christ himself. But their Christianity has been developed in a somewhat original manner under the influence of older rites. Thus their little chapels, large enough to accommodate about a dozen, have crypts filled with the horns of the chamois and wild goat, which are objects of great veneration. The priests, or "papas," form a distinct hereditary caste, though their only privilege is exemption from the laws of vendetta. Although not obliged to keep the lower part of the face covered, the women pass a bandage over their mouths when singing national or religious songs, possibly to prevent the devil from entering. All the Svans are also bound to silence when on the march, or chanting sacred hymns, for the least word might draw down the tempest. Analogous superstitions occur amongst the Norwegian fishermen, the Buriats, and the American hunting tribes.

The district of Racha, comprising the Upper Rion valley, is larger and more populous than the western basins of the Tskhenis and Ingur, and has always offered a route to graziers, traders, and even warlike bands crossing the Caucasus obliquely from the Georgian to the Terek lowlands. Hence the Rachians, who, like most of the people in the government of Kutais, are of Georgian race and speech, are more civilized than their Svanian neighbors. But they also are too numerous for their largely unproductive territory, so that thousands are forced to emigrate to the lowlands, seldom returning without having amassed a small fortune. Most of the carpenters and sawyers met with in Imeria and Mingrelia are Rachians.

The Imeritians, Mingrelians, and Lazes

The Georgians of the Upper Rion basin bear the general name of Imeritians, or more properly Imerians; that is, "People of the other side," in reference to the Suram Mountains separating them from the bulk of the nation. The term Imereth, or Imeria, has been applied, with the shifting of the border peoples, at times to all Western Transcaucasia, at times only to its upper section, Mingrelia being usually reserved for the low-lying region comprising the alluvial lands and coast district. 

Thanks to their damp, miasmatic, and enervating climate, the Mingrelians are mostly of an indolent temperament, while their brethren who have migrated to the dry district of Tiflis are noted for their active habits. A repugnance to labour was also naturally fostered by former devastating inroads, incessant intestine warfare, and the complete thralldom of the peasantry to their nobles. Here was represented every variety of serfdom, and until 1841 the priests themselves were classed as serfs. Even in recent times the Mingrelian princes were accustomed to apply personally for their tribute. Followed by courtiers, retainers, falconers, dogs, and horses, they would swoop down on some unfortunate vassal, living at his expense as long as the provisions lasted, then betaking themselves elsewhere, and thus making a round of revelry as self-invited guests, and leaving ruin in their wake. No women, especially if well favoured, were safe from these despots, who carried them off and sold their children into slavery.

Although generally too weak to resist, the Mingrelians were nevertheless occasionally driven by this oppression into revolt, as in 1857 and 1858, when they appealed to arms for the recovery of their captured women, and to get rid of the yoke riveted by their masters round their necks. But all such efforts were quenched in blood, nor was serfdom finally abolished till three years after its suppression in the rest of the empire. But many of its effects still remain, and in a teeming land the Imerians and Mingrelians continue, like the wretched Lombard peasantry, to live almost exclusively on a mess of maize or millet resembling the polenta of Italy. The usual dress is a tattered smock fastened by a cord or strap to the waist, and instead of a hat a bit of cloth retained on the head by a string passed under the chin. The Mingrelian farmstead consists of a wretched hovel of wood or branches, surrounded by badly cultivated maize-fields, with a few lean pigs or goats, and one or two buffaloes wallowing in the muddy pools. 

The Mingrelians
Although till recently dwelling beyond the political limits of Russian Transcaucasia, the Lazes of the Ajara and Chorukh basins are none the less akin in speech and race to the Mingrelians and Georgians. Those still subject to Turkey, and reaching westwards beyond Trebizond, are also of the same stock, though more or less mixed with other elements, while beyond these limits many geographical names show that in remote times the interior of Asia Minor was largely peopled by Georgians. Rosen has established the near relationship of the Laz and Georgian tongues. The language current on the banks of the Chorukh differs little from Mingrelian, though that of the west coast is largely affected by Turkish and Greek elements. In their customs also the Lazes resemble the Imerians. Both respect old age, are extremely hospitable, and, while full of curiosity, still maintain a dignified reserve. Like most Caucasians, they are fond of display and rich attire, nor do they deserve the charge of indolence brought against them by careless observers, for their fields are well tilled and their houses kept in good order. The Laz women combine with beauty and symmetry of form a rare reputation for courage. The Moslem Lazes have emigrated in large numbers to Turkish territory since the annexation to Russia in 1878, while the Christians will now probably find their way to Tiflis and the Russian ports on the Euxine.

The Imeretians dancing
The national character could scarcely fail to be modified under the Turkish regime. Three centuries ago all the Lazes of the Upper Ajara valleys were Christians, and many villages still boast of well-preserved churches in the best Byzantine style of architecture. Certain communes did not conform- to the Moslem creed till about the close of the eighteenth century, and several, though nominally followers of the Prophet, are still practically Christian, the two faiths often overlapping to such an extent that it becomes difficult to say where the one ceases and the other begins. With their religion the Turks also introduced their language into all the towns and large villages, so that the Laz dialect ceased to be current except in the remote rural districts. The Armenian colonies scattered over the land had also forgotten their mother tongue in favour of Turkish, which must now in its turn slowly yield to Russian, just as the Mohammedan must give way to the Christian faith.


The Georgians

In Central as in Western Caucasia the most numerous race are the Georgians, or Karthvelians, descendants of the Iberians spoken of by Strabo. The statuettes found in the graves represent exactly the same type and the same style of head-dress as those of the present inhabitants, so that no change has taken place in this respect during the last two thousand years. Masters of the land from the remotest historic times, the Georgians have succeeded, if not in maintaining their independence, at least in preserving their ethnical cohesion and various national idioms. They formerly occupied a wider domain, and although encroached upon at various times by Persians, Medes, Armenians, Mongols, Turks, and now by the Slavs, their territory still stretches from the plains of the Kura to Trebizond, and from Mount Elbruz to Mount Arsiani. Of all the Caucasian peoples the Georgians, who are estimated at upwards of a million, form the most compact and homogeneous nationality. In Georgia is situated Tiflis, capital of all Transcaucasia.

[...]

The Georgians of the Kura basin, like their Imerian, Mingrelian, and Laz kindred, fully deserve the reputation for physical beauty which they enjoy. They have the same abundant black hair, large eyes, white teeth, delicate complexion, lithe figures, small hands, that distinguish their western neighbours. Yet the appearance especially of their women, who mostly paint, can scarcely be described as prepossessing. They are cold and unattractive, their features lacking the animated expression and bright smile which intellectual development might be expected to have produced. 

Most of the Georgians have a high, almost flushed complexion, due doubtless to excessive indulgence in wine, of which they are ever ready to take copious draughts in honour of their friends, generally with the Tatar words, Allah Verdi, "the gift of God!" The Kakhetians especially, proud of their excellent vintages, consume large quantities, and before the ravages of the oidium [fungus], the usual allowance of the field labourers was here about half a gallon daily. This fiery wine, some of which might compare favourably with the best produced in Europe, is mostly consumed in the country, and one of the most familiar sights in Kakhetia is the well-filled ox or pig skins hanging at the doors of the shops, or crossing the country in waggon-loads. In order to preserve the pliancy of the skins the natives have the horrible practice of flaying the beasts alive, and then smearing the hides with naphtha. This imparts a disagreeable flavour to the liquor, to which, however, even strangers soon get accustomed.

Notwithstanding the fertility of the land and relatively sparse population, the peasantry of the Kura basin are generally poor, owning little beyond a few mangy cattle and sheep, whose wool looks almost like hair. Like the Mingrelians and Imerians, though to a less extent, the Georgians have suffered from the feudal system. However, since 1864 and 1866 they have at least ceased to be attached to the glebe, and serfdom has been abolished in Transcaucasia, as elsewhere throughout the empire. But the nobles, who have remained large proprietors, have not all of them yet lost the habit of treating the peasantry as beasts of burden, while practices begotten of slavery in the people themselves have not yet disappeared. 

They are for the most part uncleanly and listless, though their naturally cheerful, social, and upright disposition is gradually asserting itself. They are said to be rather less intelligent than the Caucasian races, and in the schools show less quickness than their Tatar and Armenian neighbours in mastering foreign languages and the sciences, though this may be partly due to the fact that the latter are mainly townsfolk, while the former are a rural population. 

Theft is a crime almost unknown in the Georgian and Armenian communities, the few cases of larceny that come before the Tiflis courts being mostly committed by strangers. At the same time many are addicted to contraband habits. Nor does their national legislator, King Vakhtang, seem to have entertained any high opinion of their general uprightness. "I have drawn up this code," he writes, "but in Georgia no just sentence has ever yet been, nor ever will be, pronounced." Yet, however barbarous may have been the former Government, it remained for the Russians to introduce corporal punishment of the most degrading form.

Georgians
One of the most remarkable traits of the Georgian race is their love of song and the dance. They have no great musical talent, and their language, with its numerous gutturals and sibilants, is scarcely adapted to melody. Yet none the less do they keep up an incessant chant all day long, accompanying themselves with the daira, or tambourine, and the balalaika, a sort of three-stringed guitar. Some will, so to say, adapt every movement to musical rhythm, and while weeding their maize-fields or engaged in other field work, the men dispose themselves in groups, singing in various sets snatches of verse suitable to the work in hand. As they advance the chorus becomes more vigorous, and their measured movements more rapid. At the end of the furrow they stop short, shift their places, and in retracing their steps renew the interrupted burden of their song. Despotic masters from gloomy Russia attempted in vain to impose silence on their Transcaucasian labourers. Unaccompanied by the glad music of the voice, the daily task hung heavy on their hands.

On foot, on horseback, or in their ramshackle carts the whole population flocks to the scene, indicated from afar by some venerable church or cluster of oak-trees, and here the song, the dance, trade, revelry, and religious rites all follow in rapid succession. Worship is itself performed with a sort of blind rapture. Pilgrims present themselves before the priest to have the iron collar removed, with which they had symbolized their temporary thraldom to the patron saint; and when released they immolate to his honour the ram or the bull, which afterwards supplies the banquet. Frequently some fair white-robed "spouse of the white George" will cast herself at the feet of the faithful, who must either step on her prostrate body or leap over it to reach the hallowed shrine. The Armenians, and even the Moslem Tatars, come to trade, are at times carried away by the religious frenzy, and join in the chorus and Christian rites. To the sacred succeed the profane dances, which often assume the appearance of a free fight, the victors seizing the girdles of the vanquished, enveloping themselves in the ample folds of their burkas, or donning their imposing papaches. Formerly the sham fights held in the streets of Tiflis in commemoration of the expulsion of the Persians ended in regular battles, often accompanied by loss of life.

The Khevsurs, Pshavs, and Tushes

As in the west, so in East Georgia, the ethnical picture is completed by a group of highlanders, who had till recently maintained their independence in their inaccessible upland retreats. On the one hand are the already described Svans, on the other their Khevsur, Pshav, and Tush neighbours. The highest eastern valleys about Mount Borbalo have afforded a refuge to fugitives of diverse race and speech, who, amidst these secluded upland snows and pastures, have gradually acquired, if not an independent type, at least a distinct physiognomy. Chechenzes, Lezghians, Georgians, and, according to tradition, even Jews have entered into the composition of these tribes, although the chief ethnical element is no doubt the Georgian from the south, whose presence is also shown by the prevailing Christian practices. Nevertheless the predominant speech on the northern slopes is of Chechenz origin.

Mount Borbalo is no less remarkable as an ethnological than as a water parting. Eastward stretches the Tush district, watered by the two head-streams of the Koisu of Andi; on the south the Alazan of Kakhetia, apart from a few Tushes, is mainly occupied by Georgians; on the south-west the sources of the Yora and Eastern Aragva rise in the Pshav territory; while the Khevsurs, or "People of the Gorges," dwell in the west and north-west, on both slopes of the central range, though it is impossible to assign definite limits to all these peoples. They frequently shift their quarters, following their flocks to fresh pastures assigned to them by custom, or acquired by the fortunes of war.

The Pshavs, who reach farthest down, or about the altitude of 3,300 feet, thus abutting on the Southern Georgians, are the most civilised of these highlanders, and speak a Georgian dialect. They have greatly increased in numbers since the pacification of the land has enabled them to bring their produce to the Tiflis market. The Tushes, though less numerous and pent up in their rugged valleys everywhere enclosed by snowy mountains, are said to be the most industrious and intelligent of all the hillmen in this part of the Caucasus. Most of the men, being obliged, like the Savoyards, to emigrate for half the year, bring back from the lowland populations larger ideas and more enterprising habits. Many have even acquired a considerable amount of instruction, besides several foreign languages. Their own is an extremely rude dialect, poor in vowels, abounding in consonants, with no less than nine sibilants and eight gutturals, one of which combines so intimately with the preceding or following consonants that special signs had to be invented to represent the combined letters.

The Khevsurs, completely isolated from each other during the winter by the main range, are still in a very rude and almost barbarous state, although in some respects one of the most remarkable people in Asia. Generally of a lighter brown complexion than the Tushes, they are evidently a very mixed race, varying considerably in stature, features, colour of hair and eyes, and in the shape of the cranium. Most of them have a savage aspect; some are extremely thin, like walking skeletons with miraculously animated Death's heads on their shoulders, and with large hands and feet, out of all proportion with the rest of the body. From the surroundings they have acquired muscles of steel, enabling them, even when heavily burdened, to scale the steepest cliffs, and often returning across the snows and rocks from Vladikavkaz with a hundredweight of salt on their backs.

Some of the still surviving Khevsur and Pshav customs resemble those of many Red Indian and African wild tribes. Thus the wife is confined in an isolated hut, round which the husband prowls, encouraging her to support the pains of labour with volleys of musketry. After the delivery young girls steal to the place at dawn or dusk with bread, milk, cheese, and other comforts, the mother remaining for a month in her retreat, which is burnt after her departure. The father is congratulated on the birth of a son, and feasts are prepared at his expense, but of which he may not partake. The struggle for existence in this unproductive land has introduced many practices calculated to limit the number of children to three; but infanticide does not prevail as it formerly did amongst the Svans. The Khevsurs show great affection for their offspring, though forbidden by custom to caress them in public. The boys are generally named after some wild animal— Bear, Lion, Wolf, Panther, &c., emblems of their future valour, while the girls receive such tender names as Rose, Pearl, Bright-one, Daughter of the Sun, Little Sun, Sun of my Heart, &c.

Most of the marriages are arranged by the parents while the children are yet in "long clothes." Nevertheless a formal abduction is still practiced, and after the wedding and attendant rejoicings, the young couple avoid being seen together for weeks and months. Yet divorce is frequent, and the example of the Mohammedans has even introduced polygamy in several Khevsur families. The funeral rites are not practiced with the same rigour as formerly, when none were allowed to die under a roof, but compelled to close their eyes in face of sun or stars, and mingle their last breath with the winds. In presence of the body the relatives at first feigned to rejoice, but tears and wailings soon followed, accompanied by mournful songs for the departed.

Armed Khevsur
The Khevsurs are very proud of their Christianity, which is certainly of an original type. Their chief divinity is the God of War, and amongst their other gods and angels are the Mother of the Earth, the Angel of the Oak, and the Archangel of Property. They keep the Friday like the Mohammedans, abstain from pork, worship the sacred trees, offer sacrifices to the genii of earth and air. They have priests whose duties are to examine the sick, sprinkle the victim's blood over the people, proclaim the future, prepare the sacred beer, and these dignitaries end by becoming possessed of all the precious stones, old medals, and chased silver vases in the country. 

The Khevsurs are also, perhaps, the only people in the world who still use armour, coats of mail, arm-pieces, and helmets like those of mediaeval knights, and formerly general amongst all the Caucasian tribes. Down to the close of the last century the Chechen Ingushes still wore the shield and coats of mail. The traveller is often startled by the sight of these armed warriors, who look like lineal descendants of the Crusaders, but whom the law of vendetta alone compels to go about thus cased in iron. All who have to execute or fear an act of vengeance appear abroad with all their offensive and defensive arms, including the terrible spiked gauntlet, which has left its mark on the features of most of the natives.

[...]

View on the Mountain Kazbegi

The Darial Pass

The Caucasian Jews

The village of Passanauri

The port town of Poti

Mtskheta. View on the medieval Svetitskhoveli Cathedral


One of the streets in Tiflis

The Armenians

An Abkhaz